The soap solution

Better Nutrition (1989-90), July, 1989 by Lia Schorr

The Soap Solution

Health food stores carry a variety of natural cleansers. Learn which ones are best for you.

For years, skin care professionals have argued over whether to use soap or cleansing lotion to wash the face. Doctors and cosmetologists disagree wholeheartedly on the advantages and disadvantages of soap versus lotions. Most dermatologists believe soap is the only way to rid the face of grime, but skin care experts are solidly on the side of lotions as a gentler, safer way to preserve the skin.

Dermatologists argue that anyone's complexion, regardless of type or sex, is strong enough to withstand daily cleansing with soap. They contend that soap is not intended to be a conditioner, like moisturizers, but merely to remove dirt and other surface debris.

On the other hand, cosmetologists and many manufacturers of skin treatment lines claim that the use of soap contributes to the premature aging of skin because of its drying capabilities. Washing with soap often leaves the skin feeling taut. But you can avoid these developments by replacing soap with a cleansing lotion that does the job as well, but leaves the complexion soft and smooth.

In the end, the choice is yours. Your skin type and sensitivities are the factors that determine which products you should use.

The base of a soap dictates its pH content or how alkaline or acidic it is. Synthetics soaps, beauty bars and even soap-and-detergent combinations hover at the neutral mark. Pure soaps tend to be highly alkaline, because of their component compounds (salts and fatty acids).

This high pH content is believed to cause skin irritation or dryness. However, many doctors now believe skin dryness has little to do with pH factor.

True soaps are composed of alkaline-salts and fatty acids (coconut oil and tallow being the most common sources). Most are milled, which means that a liquid mixture of fats, oils and other ingredients such as coloring agents and fragrance are passed through stone or steel rollers, then compressed into bars.

French-milled soap has been passed through the milling process three times. This reduces the water content, which, in turn, promotes a thick lather and a longer-lasting soap.

Hard-milled soap is passed through the rollers twice.

Super-fatted soap contains additives, such as emollients and moisturizers (usually cocoa butter, lanolin or coconut oil). These additives reduce a soap's cleansing potential and lessen its ability to remove oils. However, super-fatted products can be less irritating to the skin.

Acne soaps containing sulfur and sulfur combined with resorcinol help control greasiness, stop acne flare-ups and encourage a light peeling action. But, be wary of acne soaps containing scrubbing grains, which should never be used on red, pimply skin.

Synthetic soap contains fatty acid derivatives of petroleum chemicals instead of natural ingredients. These soap substitutes clean equally well and deposit less residue on the skin because of their low alkaline content.

The issue of soap "film" is important and one of the reasons cosmetologists think soap is drying, even dehydrating. The "film" left on the skin's surface is a consequence of its alkalinity. In hard-water areas, the salts in a soap combine with the minerals in the water to leave a residue on skin. With many Americans living in hard-water areas, synthetic soaps may be a better choice.

The term "mild" can mean gentle, non-irritating or safer for the skin. Usually, this term is related to advertising rather than a product's performance. Often, adverse reactions to soap are not related to a product's strength but a person's skin sensitivity or allergies.

Cleansing lotions are designed to dissolve and remove makeup, dirt, pollutants and sebum that accumulate on the skin's surface without stripping it of it's natural oils. If you rinse off properly with cold water, you'll feel as clean as you do with soap.