Gloria Vanderbilt Revs Return to TV, As New 'Glo' Subline Eves Junior Set

Brandweek, Dec 4, 2000 by Sandra Dolbow

Gloria Vanderbilt Apparel plans to make some noise via a spring push through print, outdoor and in-store efforts to boost its signature jeans brand and introduce a junior line, called Glo, that will try on its own aspirational approach.

The company will also debut a men's line, Vanderbilt by Gloria Vanderbilt, in fall 2001.

The new campaigns, which begin in March and are backed by a $5 million budget, are part of a strategy to grow the Gloria Vanderbilt brand by expanding its product offerings, distribution channels and customer base. They follow the return of Jordache, another '70s-era jeans stalwart to the airwaves after a long silence (Brandweek, Oct. 23) along with an update by onetime rival Sergio Valente.

"We've kept a low profile," said company president Jack Gross, who with Isaac Dabah heads an investor group that acquired the apparel maker from Gitano in 1993. "We wanted to solidify the foundation of the company and make sure the engine was running and we had credibility before we made more noise with the brand. We want to make noise with substance."

The line, which was established by Gloria Vanderbilt in 1975 and sold to Mohan Murjani in 1978 and to Gitano in 1990, was one of the most recognizable fashion labels of its '70s heyday Together with the resurrection of all things retro among the junior set, consumer awareness remains high.

According to Gross, the brand, which is distributed through national chains such as J.C. Penney, Mervyn's Kohl's and other stores, has seen a 38% compounded annual growth rate since 1997. That success helped foster the new Glo line, he said.

Glo plays off the Gloria Vanderbilt name but otherwise shows no association with the parent brand on the label. "The junior customer wants its own identity," Gross said. "So we made it its own brand."

The Glo campaign was shot in mid-November by Paris-based photographer Peter Lindbergh in a classic California bungalow Ads, which break in March issues of Seventeen and other teen titles, reflect product and the aspirational attitude of their target junior customer, aged 14-21. "They are edgy but with clean sensuality" Gross said. Alexa, a young model represented by DNA Model Management, New York, is Glo's new face.

A sweepstakes with junior retailer Wet Seal, offering a VW Beetle grand prize, will also support the launch, which features jeans, capris, shorts, skirts and tops in an array of colors and fabrics at prices ranging from $18 for tops and $38 for bottoms. Glo's signature logo is a stream of engineered dots across the back pocket of the jeans.

Gloria Vanderbilt ads, shot by Peter Alistair, of London, also break in March issues. The buy has not been finalized, but will include Glamour and Cosmopolitan among others. Like Glo, they depict product and attitude, but with a clean approach, featuring model Michelle Behenna in a variety of styles and the re-designed Gloria Vanderbilt logo against a red background.

To build consumer loyalty, the company will initiate a number of "Gloria Vanderbilt weeks" with key retail partners that will involve gifts with purchase, purchase with purchase and sweepstakes events.

Foundation Design, Seattle, is the ad agency for both apparel lines.

Gloria Vanderbilt's five-pocket stretch jean accounts for 50% of sales; however, shorts, woven shirts, sweaters, knit tops and dresses in colors and novelty prints round out the line. In addition, Gloria Vanderbilt boasts a stable of licensees for watches, jewelry, socks, shoes, bridal gowns, knits, woven tops, outerwear, sweaters, handbags and children's clothing. Licenses for Glo are also in the works.

Jeans sales overall, however, have softened as suppliers, from giant Levi Strauss to small designer labels, face heavy competition within the branded denim business itself and from other clothing categories. Jeans makers are looking to new denim finishes, color and updated styles to re-energize business.