Reading under the influence - Currents

Cheers, Jan-Feb, 2002 by Jack Robertiello

The indefatigable Oz Clarke continues to work diligently at spreading the good word about world wide wine, with a infectious enthusiasm unmuddied by pretense and without (too many) prejudices. His latest, Oz Clarke's Encyclopedia of Grapes, (Harcourt) breaks away from the classic design of large wine books, sticking with the notion that above all, the grape tells the tale.

Structured and designed like his New Encyclopedia of Wine, Clarke's latest works its way from Albarino to Zinfandel, through Barbera, clonal varieties, and other essentials to grape-dom. As usual, his prose is winning, the small entries pithy, and this time, the illustrations of the top varietals gorgeous. Clarke, of course, subtly pushes his favorites and generally supports his usual thesis that, despite too much oak here or high prices there, wine now is better around the world than ever before, and promises at the lower price levels to provide great satisfaction at fair prices to those willing to do a little work. For anyone interested in a new sort of wine reference that helps speed the work along, start here. Clarke has also launched two reconfigured books recently: new editions of Oz Clarke's Pocket Wine Guide and with Steven Spurrier, Clarke and Spurrier's Fine Wine Guide.

Whisky coverage seems to be increasing, even as so-called brown goods continue to fight to maintain a share in the US market. Dave Brown's Handbook of Whisky (Hamlyn) is yet another example of the passion among spirits writers to keep the lore, romance and quality of classic distillation alive, even if today's consumer seems to prefer less flavor and character. His handbook is a lavishly illustrated guide to the best bourbons, Canadians, Irish and Scotch whiskies made, and in it he's gathered wonderful insights about what makes whiskies what they are. (David Stewart of William Grant, for instance, tells him that Balvenie and Glenfiddich differ so dramatically, even though they use the same water and same malt and are distilled at the same site, because Glenfiddich's still is coal fired, while Balvenie's is gas fired as well as being larger; with shorter necks.)

Brown's done great work here, even if he's on a path well-traveled by the likes of Jackson and others, and this guide deserves a space on the old bar shelf.

Robert Plotkin keeps churning out the bar and spirit-related books. The fourth edition of The Original Guide to American Cocktails and Drinks (BarMedia) is his second this year, following The Original Guide to Caribbean Rum and Drinks (do we sense a series, Robert?), and it's a good one if recipes are what you're after. Plotkin gathers hundreds from his capacious files, includes more than 100 short stories about selected spirits, tips on mixology, glassware and service. The guide is heavily indexed by product, so that a bartender looking to create something new on a slow night can easily find what Plotkin recommends to make with, say, original Polish Vodka, or Remy Red, or Tropico. Check it out.

Lastly, a plug: if you're planning to travel to NYC (and we'd all like to see you come back here soon), pick up a copy of the new guidebook Mangia! The Best Italian Food In NYC, (Invisible Cities Press) written by Jack Robertiello, editor of Cheers.