Retailer wine selections: the Cheers National Wine Panel recommends a lineup of top quality/value Pinot Noir - Wine Selections

Cheers, Jan-Feb, 2004

Pinot Noir has been called an enigma, a chameleon, a seducer, a puzzle. The Burgundian varietal doesn't yield big, bruising wines, but rather is all about elegance and complexity. Like the little girl with the little curl, when it's good, it's very, very good. With this in mind, we asked the Cheers National Wine Panel (cited at the end of this article) to suggest some top quality/value. As always, these selections include brief tasting notes, a rating and the wine's suggested retail price (which varies from market to market).

FIVE STARS

***** 97 Gryphon Anderson Valley 2000 Reserve Pinot Noir (California). Extraordinary effort, medium crimson color; saturated aromas of wild strawberries and sweet smoke, outstanding concentration, fine style; medium bodied, lively acidity, excellent structure; bright red fruit flavors, long, lingering finish. $55

***** 95 Domaine G. Roumier Bonnes-Marre 1998 (France). Medium russet red color; outstanding aromas of minerals and wild strawberries, enticing sweet earth in the background; medium bodied, seductive palate, silky and long; incredibly persistent and pure ripe strawberry flavors, great depth; long, smooth, youthful finish. $150

***** 94 Domaine Serene Willamette Valley Grace Vineyard 2000 Pinot Noir (Oregon). Heady and deep, incredibility intense all the way around; fine ripe strawberry aromas, lasting and alluring; medium to full bodied, excellent textures; fine, intense ripe black fruit flavors; lingering finish. $75

***** 94 Archery Summit Renegade Ridge 2001 Pinot Noir (Oregon). Laser beam acidity, driven by ruby red cherries; long, complex finish; further proof that 2001 is Oregon's finest pinot noir vintage ever. $65

***** 94 Armida Pinot Noir 'Baciagalupi Vineyard' Russian River 2001 (California). Exotic aromas and flavors of Asian spice, tea, wildflowers and a hint of forest come in waves from the initial sip through the long finish; the medium body and soft tannins do not get in the way of this beauty; perfect for grilled seafood like salmon fillets. ($35)

***** 92 Rodney Strong Russian River Valley 2001 Pinot Noir (California). A wine of this breed for under $20 is a real deal; fairly intense nose is the prelude to bursting black cherries and spice; coats the walls of the mouth with a wonderful lushness and ends in a finish that is truly refined and elegant. ($16)

***** 94 Sanford Santa Barbara County 2001 Pinot Noir (California). Deep garnet in color with aromas of bright cherry, boysenberry, plum and spice; on the palate are underlying flavors of dark cocoa, Asian spices and smoky barrel; pairs well with salmon, quail and duck but also big enough for steaks and roasted beef. $20

***** 94 Au Bon Climat 2001 Santa Maria Valley, Estate Bottled Pinot Noir (California). Bright ruby/purple in color, with good clarity; bright fruit aromas of red cherries, cranberry and strawberry in a sweet, almost jammy composition; medium bodied and silky with light tannin; the complex palate reveals wild black cherry, blackberry, spice, tar and earth; good structure and precise acidity lead to a finish of dark cherry and cedar; a very versatile food wine. $20

***** 94 Babcock 2001 Pinot Noir (California). Typical of the variety, it's jammy, with sensations of ripe, baked fruits, while also featuring a seductive smoky effect, with a touch of violets; on the palate, the wine is very rich; pinot at its best in this price range. $25

***** 93 Pisoni Estate 2001 Pinot Noir (California). A big, highly extracted pinot that attracts consumers; deep, inky color that imitates syrah; deep black fruit tones that pair well with game or grilled foods. $60

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***** 93 WillaKenzie Estate 2000 Willamette Valley, "Pierre Leon" Pinot Noir (Oregon). Dark reddish purple, with brilliant clarity; a bouquet dominated by raspberry, cranberry, red plum and a little rose petal; light body and lively acidity let the bright fruit flavors dominate the palate, with strawberry and cranberry; firm tannin kicks in on the finish, where ripe a blackberry after-taste lingers; great with lamb or lighter red meats. $27

***** 93 Dumol 2001 Russian River Pinot Noir (California). From Hanna and Dutton vineyard fruit, this shows an effusive black cherry and cola nose, rich, spicy berry fruit and a soft yet firmly structured finish. $60

***** 92 BV Carneros 2000 Pinot Noir (California). Fine crimson-ruby color; ripe black cherry, plum and raspberry aromas combined with hints of toasty new oak; ripe, medium-bodied flavors and fine tannins give the wine definition and grace; a velvety texture and long finish; delightful with grilled salmon, risotto with wild mushrooms or a rich meat dish like Osso Buco. $18 Diageo Chateau & Estates

***** 93 Bethel Heights Vineyard Southeast Block Reserve Willamette Valley Estate Grown 2000 Pinot Noir (Oregon). Pure elegance, attractive fragrant aromas, fine with excellent depth; medium bodied, pleasing, silky plate, layered, fine structure; excellent depth, great example of a seamless, well put together effort; long finish. $35