London calling: today's nexus of cocktail culture is definitely Old World

Cheers, Jan-Feb, 2005 by Jack Robertiello

ALL STARS?

Altman, though, touches on the problems that begin once you get below the upper reaches of bartenders. "Every time I've been to America, you can get six or seven of the standard cocktails prepared well everywhere. Over here, it's either brilliant cocktails or absolutely awful ones."

And some experimentation simply doesn't work. "Take the Strawberry-Basil Martini; it's a brilliant drink, but you've got to get it right because the basil flavor can be very strong. You find bartenders who want to be mixologists, they will put just too much in a drink, not just too much of one flavor, but too many flavors. We base our training in the classics, and four ingredients in a cocktail are usually enough."

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Another problem in adapting London style to the U.S. is the sheer volume of work required. Behind most style bars are clusters of bartenders scooping, squeezing, shaking and straining all at once, ringing up labor costs few American operators would allow, no matter that drink prices routinely run from $12 to more than $20.

Ben Reed, part of IPB, says getting other than style bar operations to meet higher standards is a major challenge, so IPB has decided to focus on motivating and inspiring bartenders at the mid-range chain and smaller city bars and restaurants.

"These guys not at the top level may still be thinking that this is something you do when you can't do anything else. Bartending has always been a transient job with very few over 35 years old working because it's difficult to support a family. What we try to do is to let them know that we have a viable business, we're professional bartenders whose parents aren't hesitant to tell their friends what we do anymore, and you can further yourself if you want to develop your schools."

OLD FAVORITES

Then there are those like Cas Oh, bar manager at the Groucho Club, who oversees a cocktail list of finely crafted oldies, like the Corpse Reviver (gin, Cointreau, Lillet blanc, lemon juice and absinthe), Blood and Sand (Scotch, Cherry Heering, sweet vermouth and orange juice), and an unparalleled Espresso Martini. Young and well traveled, his skills are a sign that someone well trained is employable anywhere.

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Amid a town overrun with Pineapple Ginger Martinis and Lemongrass Collins's, the dapper master Salvatore Calabrese "can barely wait until we open," although only cracked plaster, rather than ancient cognacs, are in sight at Salvatore at Fifty. Philosopher/barman Calabrese adheres to the belief that the best bartenders already have long been working at the level of chefs and sommeliers, and that the industry needs to do more to assure that bartending is treated as a serious job. As long as operators look to the bar as a place to cut corners and costs with short cuts and cheap ingredients, raising the bar country- or worldwide will take some doing.

From where he stands, bartending is about not only the drinks, but also the intangibles of service, sales and sympathy. It helps, though, if you possess innate creativity. He proved that great cocktails are not dependent upon obscure ingredients and odd presentations with drinks like his Breakfast Martini (gin, Cointreau, lemon juice and orange marmalade), a beverage born to be enshrined on every brunch menu.