Zero-proof through the roof: non-alcoholic beverages of all types are ringing registers

Cheers, March, 2003 by Michael Sherer

Ever hear of a licuado? How about a ayran or a jallab? Agua fresca maybe? Or an operation that has so many different types of bottled water that it has a water sommelier?

Multiple-Martini power lunches are out, and non-alcohol beverages now rule lunch. While flavored Martinis may be popular, even cocktail hour patrons are turning to virgin versions of the latest flavor faves.

The quest for new flavor experiences, in fact, has motivated many operators to become innovative with their beverage menus, especially on the n/a side. In the not too distant past, the best abstaining customers could hope for were coffee, tea, juice, a soda, milk and plain old ice water.

For operators, the obvious benefit of a thoughtful non-alcohol beverage list is its tremendous profit potential. Waters, juices and lemonades are commanding between $2 and $5 on many menus. Operators often get more for bottled teas and sodas. And specialty drinks may bring in even more.

While most operators are still focused on sales of beverage alcohol, they acknowledge their responsibility to their customers and the community. Non-alcoholic beverages just make good sense.

You'll find the same categories on today's beverage menus, but you might not recognize some of the elaborations. And the number of choices many operators now offer has exploded. While not yet as elaborate as wine or spirits lists, non-alcohol beverage offerings have become a prominent and integral part of the entire beverage menu, not an afterthought.

JUICY ITEMS

Freshly squeezed juices, once the sole domain of a few high end establishments, are now more common. At Ouest in New York, for example, all the juices are fresh-squeezed, even the cranberry juice. What's new are juices from more exotic fruits and fruit combinations. The increased availability of fresh produce year round, including exotic fruits like mango, passion fruit and guava, has made it easier to offer fresh juice.

Frozen purees also give operators the ability to create their own juice combinations and add flavor to a host of other beverages, too. Dylan Prime in New York, for example, features Dylan Punch, a combination of orange, cranberry, pineapple and lime juices on ice.

Varietal grape juices also have become popular on menus across the country. Some Napa Valley Grilles offer pinot noir and gewurztraminer grape juices. Mary Elaine's at the Phoenician Resort in Scottsdale also serves both varietal juices, even going so far as to recommend the gewurztraminer juice with the restaurants foie gras dish.

Sparkling juices and juice-based beverages also sell well on a lot of menus. Gramercy Tavern, New York, does well with sparkling cider.

"It's not cloying, not too sweet," said Nick Mautone, managing partner. "Also, it's very festive served in a Champagne glass so people who choose not to drink don't feel left out."

In addition to sparkling cider, the Phoenician also serves red, white and rose sparkling juice beverages flavored with schizandra, jasmine, gentian and lime-flower. Produced by a company in the U.K., the beverages come in bottles similar to those used for wine.

AID FOR ADES

Lemonade, a menu staple for years, has metamorphosed into a signature drink on many menus. Across the country, traditional lemonade is getting a dose of flavor and splash of color from a surprising array of ingredients. Flavored syrups can play a big part in creating a specialized house recipe.

At Zola, Washington, D.C., the house lemonade is made with fresh lemons and ginger. Before serving, staff members float a layer of brilliant red hibiscus syrup on top, making it not only unusual and refreshing, but a real attention-getter.

The Phoenician Resort's house lemonade, called the Camelback Cooler, is made with fresh lemonade, raspberry syrup and a splash of club soda.

Cafe Atlantico, Washington, D.C., offers a variety of flavored lemonades and limeades. Each is made individually from scratch, Bartenders even leave the squeezed fruit in the glass. The limeade is usually served with mint. Dominican lemonade is made with lemonade, pineapple juice grapefruit juice and a splash of pomegranate juice for color. The restaurant also has a pomegranate lemonade.

Napa Valley Grille offers seasonal lemonades, providing the opportunity to give patrons something new and unusual on a regular basis. Recent flavorings have included red currant, guarana berry and guava.

The six Lebanese Tavernas in the D.C. area serve their fresh house lemonade with a healthy splash of rose water, giving it an unusual fragrance and refreshing flavor.

As an alternative to lemonade, many operations also offer spritzers. Dylan Prime has a cranberry juice spritzer on the menu. Zola's cranberry spritzer is made with white cranberry juice and garnished with sun-dried cranberries.

FIT TO A TEA

Not so long ago, waitstaff would give you a funny look if you ordered tea. Customers might be lucky to receive a bag of orange pekoe and a cup of tepid water. Operators have come a long way since. Consumers are even tired of alternatives like chamomile and mint teas.