Tequila taster's dozen: a fresh crop of 100 percent agave tequilas takes the high end of this growing category to new levels of flavor and variety

Cheers, April, 2007 by Robert Plotkin

In Mexico, they're referred to as Tequila Puro, while in the United States we know them as 100 percent agave tequilas. The first sip of these luxurious spirits quickly reveals why they've captured the imagination of the American drinking public of late. They are so flavorful that you're left with the unmistakable impression that this is how tequilas are meant to taste.

These are the best of times for tequila. Interest in the spirit is nothing short of phenomenal, propelling the category ahead a robust 10.2 percent in 2006 in the U.S., according to Adams Beverage Research, outpacing vodka and rum. Considering that the Mexican import constitutes only five percent of the American spirits market, there is a tremendous opportunity for continued growth.

As the name suggests, 100 percent agave tequilas are single-ingredient products. They are distilled using nothing other than blue agave and a small amount of water. Crafting great tequila is a labor- and time-intensive process. Agaves mature at their own pace irrespective of demand and taking short cuts during the production process consigns a tequila to mediocrity.

Consumers may wonder, if they're made from nothing but agave, how can there be such a huge disparity of quality, taste and selling price? In reality, the differences between brands are years in the making. From cultivating agaves to unbarreling an anejo, the production cycle can exceed 15 years, and every decision made impacts the finished tequila.

Production of tequila is most similar to that of Cognac; the distillation techniques are centuries old and both are distilled from expertly cultivated products--grape varietals or mature agaves--and both are representative of their countries of origin.

HARVEST TIME

It takes the agave between eight and 12 years to reach maturity; optimally it's harvested when the plant's natural sugar content has peaked at 21 to 25 brix. The agave thrives in rich volcanic soil and a warm and dry climate. As with wine, the appellation and growing region is a point of distinction.

The traditional method of baking agaves involves a large oven called an hornos. This slow process ensures that the agaves are properly cooked and the sugars don't caramelize. The technologically advanced method is to pressure-cook the agaves in large, stainless steel autoclaves. Here again are points of difference.

After baking, the agaves are taken to a crusher. The juice--called aguamiel--is separated from the crushed fibers and transferred to a fermentation tank. Water and yeast are added to start fermentation, a process that takes approximately 72 to 96 hours. Extending the period of fermentation is often cited as a qualitative difference.

The size, volume and exact shape of the still also affect how the finished tequila will taste. When tequila leaves the still, it is clear. At this point, some of the tequila is sent on to be aged in oak, with the remainder being bottled as blanco or plata (silver) tequila.

Reposado (rested) tequila is aged in wood for a minimum of two months, although most remain in the wood four to eight months. Anejo tequila legally must be aged a minimum of one year in barrels 600 liters or smaller; most are aged in ex-bourbon barrels, which impart less tannin and imbue the spirit with a subtle whiskey character.

The production of 100 percent agave tequilas is closely scrutinized by the government to ensure quality standards are strictly maintained. Seals are affixed to the opening of the barrels to certify that nothing is added during aging.

IN THE LIME LIGHT

Nothing breeds success like success and tequila continues to be an impressive success story. But is there a point when there are too many brands of premium tequila on our shelves?

"Perhaps, but don't start looking for that saturation point to come soon," contends Rich Krumm, food and beverage director for the Ralph Brennan Restaurant Group of New Orleans. "At Red Fish Grill, we carry 45 labels of tequila and they're all extremely active. Tequila drinkers are different than, let's say, vodka drinkers, who find a brand they like and stick with that brand. Tequila aficionados are very open to trying new brands."

Brendan Moylan, owner of Noonan's Bar & Grill in Larkspur, Calif., agrees that tequila enthusiasts thrive on the sense of discovery. "Stocking new brands is a significant sales driver. We carry over 300 labels of tequila and invest in new brands. I'm a devoted fan of 100 percent agave tequilas, and like most, I appreciate getting an opportunity to sample a new line of tequila."

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Luckily, the past year or so has seen the introduction of a number of new brands of 100 percent agave tequila, super-premium products in price and degree of excellence. Their impeachable quality suggests extending them V.I.P. treatment--snifters and chilled cocktail glasses versus tall slushy concoctions. Tasting flights and elegant cocktails are also ideal paths to introduce these new players to your guests.

"Our guests understand tequila, but if they don't, this is a great place to learn," says Gabriella Rosado, general manager at Colibri Mexican Bistro in San Francisco, where 375 tequilas are available. "Our bartenders can explain why the Margarita costs $12 and give them a sample of the tequila neat so they see why it is so special. They wind up coming back to learn more."