Cheers spirits tasting: flavor in focus

Cheers, April, 2007

New whiskies and gins, as well as a few vodkas, rums and a liqueur, caught the attention of our tasters recently. Both Jack Robertiello and Robert Plotkin discern layers of aromatics and flavor in each that reflect the origins and distillation of these selected spirits. Our dynamic tasting duo share their recommendations, notes and thoughts on how best to enjoy them here.

ROBERTIELLO RECOMMENDS

Introducing a powerful cask strength whisky like The Glenlivet 16-Year-Old Nadurra Cask Strength is a stretch for The Glenlivet, and one fans of the brand looking for something a little different will enjoy. This non-chill filtered whisky offers a light malt and tangerine nose with a hint of mint. On the palate, the well-crafted spirit arrives lightly for a 57.2 percent alcohol by volume Scotch, smooth and dry with a clean maltiness, candied orange peel and some vanilla from the oak. It's surprisingly refined, maybe too refined for the cask strength crowd, but lovely. (Pernod Ricard USA)

The Ardbeg distillery continues its remarkable resuscitation under the control of Moet Hennessy, with the latest expression coming from a limited stock of 1990 distillate. Ardbeg Airigh Nam Beist Single Malt Scotch, (pronounced a-ram-na beest), which means "shelter of the beast" in Gaelic, this latest release is named for one of the lakes which feeds the distillery and, as with all other Ardbeg expressions, is non-chill filtered. The Beastie, as it's called, being six years older than the standard Ardbeg Ten, is a round, softer version of the peatiest and smokiest Scotch whisky made. There's a seaside peatfire potency with a hit of menthol and medicine at the first whiff, and a citrus zip as well. It tastes at first both sweet and smoky, with a soothing vanilla cream laid on top of the smoked meat and spice opening. At the finish, chocolate and licorice appear, with some herbal edges, a bit like Fisherman's Friend lozenges, but more dessert-like, and then the long ash-edged finish. (Moet Hennessey USA)

Only one brand of curacao is still distilled on the Caribbean island of Curacao: Senior Curacao of Curacao. The company makes a variety of flavors, all backed with the mighty orange tang of real curacao, but my favorite is the Senior Curacao Chocolate Liqueur, a rich, lush and velvety liquid version of Christmas chocolate oranges. Great for dessert drinks or as a cocktail ingredient, but either way a terrifically refined cordial. (Preiss Imports)

Herb's four herbal vodka flavors--cilantro, dill, fennel and rosemary--are filled with lushly concentrated herbal aromatics, like freshly crushed leaves on a kitchen counter. I like Herb's Aromatic Dill Leaf Infused Vodka best as a cocktail ingredient, especially in a tweaked Bloody Mary, with the tangy cilantro a close second (try a dash in a Margarita, Michelada or Sangrita). In tomato sauce, the rosemary and fennel are terrific. The flavors are powerful, so use ... gingerly. (Garden Variety Vodka Co.)

One of the two new pear flavored vodkas from big producers, Absolut Pears gives off waves of aromas of Bartlett pears ripening in a bowl, even that enticing, slightly overripe estery quality. Again, in the mouth, the pure taste of ripe pear arrives with the typically clean and neat Absolut distillate. Finishes clean as well, with a slight lingering fruit and black pepper quality. If adding a new flavor to your cocktail repertoire is important, this pear vodka ought to provide you with some inspiration. (Absolut Spirits)

The makers of Tanqueray have launched Tanqueray Rangpur, named for the tart tangerine-style Indian limes used in its production. It's a fresh and flavorful alternative to juniper-potent gins and citrus flavored vodkas, with just enough of the botanical mix--including coriander, bay leaf, ginger and juniper, of course--to balance the citrusy zip. Soft and refreshing, this is a modest gin, not looking to impress with its botanical power, but providing a solid bridge for vodka drinkers tired of tutti-frutti selections. Good for long drinks especially. (Diageo)

Jack Robertiello is web editor of www.adamsbevgroup.com and former editor of Cheers. He can be reached at jrobertiello@m2media360.com.

PLOTKIN'S PICKS

Limited release Rittenhouse 21-Year-Old Straight Rye Whiskey is an exquisite and divinely inspired single barrel spirit hand-selected from Heaven Hill's legendary reserves of aging whiskey. It is not chill filtered and bottled in its natural state. The whiskey has a generous, spicy bouquet, a seamless body and a huge initial entry. It fills the mouth with a magnificent array of delectable fruity, peppery and toasted oak flavors. The finish is long and sublime. This must be the whiskey they drink in heaven. (Heaven Hill)

Regalia Vodka is crafted in Moscow from winter wheat and artesian water drawn from 1,500 feet below ground, distilled five times in column stills and rigorously filtered to remove any trace impurities. Regalia is crystal clear with a subtle bouquet of sweet grain and an oily textured, lightweight body. The vodka passes over the palate softly, raising little heat in the process. The dry flavors of cereal and anise linger well into the protracted finish. A solid, top-shelf performer. (Aiko LLC)