Across the spirits spectrum

Cheers, April, 2008

Distillers today are embracing age-old recipes as well as new-age ingredients, and our tasting tag-team sampled spirits from both schools for this issue. From a vodka with functional attributes to ultra-premium tequilas and whiskeys demonstrating heritage and a full range of flavors, the selections showcase the vibrancy of distilled spirits offerings today. Our experts share their thoughts on bottlings on-premise operators should consider, along with some thoughts on how to utilize the spirits for best advantage.

PLOTKIN'S PICKS

At long last, here's a tricked-out vodka perfectly in sync with America and our nanosecond lifestyle. Dutch-born p.i.n.k. Vodka is a classy spirit with a satiny, medium-weight body, lightly spiced bouquet and enough character not to get lost in a cocktail. The refined palate is pleasantly dry, the finish as satisfying as cocoa. A noteworthy feature of p.i.n.k is its natural infusion of flavorless caffeine and guarana. (p.i.n.k. Spirits)

The first release from Philadelphia Distilling, Bluecoat American Dry Gin is a hand-made, delectably fresh spirit guaranteed to seduce every sense in your body. This small batch, 94-proof spirit features an array of alluring and exhilarating juniper, citrus and herbal aromas. The gin has a soft, lightweight body and brilliant, long lasting citrus and juniper-laced flavors. The combined effect is mesmerizing. Expect Bluecoat Gin to have an Elvis-like impact. (Philadelphia Distilling)

Ultra-premium Jose Cuervo Platino is the distillery's most artisan tequila release to date, a genuinely charming spirit with tremendous depth of character. Crystal clear, Platino grabs your attention at once with its delectable medley of citrus, fruity and lightly peppered aromas. The tequila has a dazzling, curvaceous body and a layered palate of ripe plums, figs, toasted oak, black pepper and spice. The warm, lingering finish seals the deal. (Diageo)

Gran Patron Burdeos is a luxurious slice of heaven. Debuting at around $500 retail, the limited production, extra anejo is finished for a year in used Bordeaux barrels. The result is an inspired achievement with a striking, dark honey/amber hue and a magnificent bouquet of lightly spiced, floral, fruity aromas. It has a silky, surprisingly light body and a warm, captivating palate of nutty, fruity, wine-induced flavors that persist long into the soft, spicy and thoroughly elegant finish. (Patron Spirits Company)

Sobieski Vodka is the bestselling premium vodka in Poland. It's quadruple-distilled entirely from Dankowski rye, a variety deserving of its reputation for producing robust, character-rich spirits. Alone in a glass, Sobieski has ideal clarity, a hesitant, yet delightful herbaceous nose and a rounded, lightweight body. The vodka's initial entry raises little heat while delivering a long-lasting payload of dry, spicy flavors. Sobieski is a superb spirit inexplicably priced under $10 per 750 ml. (Imperial Brands)

The first in a series of limited releases, Jameson Rarest Vintage Reserve is an exquisite blend of many of the oldest and rarest whiskeys in their vaults. The 92 proof Reserve has a viscous, featherweight body, glistening, golden/amber hue and a nose brimming with vanilla, toffee, malt and honeyed aromas. The initial attack is lip-tingling and prickly hot, which quickly yields center stage to the warm waves of dry, nutty, mocha flavors with sherry-like notes. The whiskey finishes long and slightly spicy. Priced at $250, Jameson Rarest is a once in a lifetime event. (Pernod Ricard)

The Dominican Republic is among the finest places on the planet to cultivate sugar cane, which partially explains the vivaciousness of Brugal Anejo Rum. It's a top-shelf contender with a deep amber hue and a layered bouquet redolent of figs, cherries, milk chocolate and fresh sugar cane. The light-bodied anejo has a full, rich palate overloaded with fruity, piney and spicy flavors. The finish is dry and eminently satisfying. It ranks among the best values in the category. (Shaw-Ross)

Robert Plotkin is a judge at the San Francisco World Spirits Competition and has recently authored his 16th book, Secrets Revealed of America's Greatest Cocktails--The Hottest Spirits, Freshest Places and Coolest Drinks. He is the recipient of the 2007 Cheers Raising the Bar Award, and can be reached at www.BarMedia.com or at robert@barmedia.com.

ROBERTIELLO RECOMMENDS

Aged for six years, Russell's Reserve Rye reveals some of that Wild Turkey house style--bold, spicy and complex, with a generous nose of liniment, leather, almond, oak and spices. It opens spicy and rich, with a peppery fire and lots of mouth-rippling acids that linger for a long time but don't punish the palate. It is a well-crafted rye whiskey, one that shows what master distiller Jimmy Russell and son Eddie can do. I can't wait for one with some serious age on it. (Pernod Ricard)

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Karlsson's GOLD, a super-premium vodka from Sweden, is touted as the first vodka expressing a terroir--albeit one based on potato varieties--and is the brainchild of master blender Borje Karlsson, one of the original developers of the Absolut recipe. Distilled from seven varieties of Swedish potatoes, Karlsson's has a telltale potato vodka aromatic sweetness on the nose with slightly herbal notes as well. It's clean and creamy on the palate, smooth and rich, with a slight fennel and ground black pepper tang. It is a good sipping vodka made well. (MHW Ltd.)