Mostly Mexican morsels: Mexican small plates have become American restaurant stand-bys

Cheers, May, 2004 by Jack Robertiello

Azteca Restaurants, a 32-unit chain based in Seattle, WA, recently redid their beverage and appetizer menu to match drink recipes, some designed by their own bartenders, with small plates. So when customers stroll in and pick up the Azteca happy hour menu, the $3.50 Margaritas, $2.75 draft Dos Equis, and $3 glass of Sangria are offered along with such bargain priced dishes as nachos, tostadas, tacos and taquitos rancheros. On the daily menu, the appetizer list grows to include mojo de ajo (shrimp or scallops sauteed with mushrooms in butter, garlic and crushed chiles), jalapeno poppers, quesadillas, Mexican pizza and even a large sampler platter (chicken wings, taquitos, quesadillas and much more).

It's worth noting that in today's American food service world, probably none of the Spanish language terms used in the above paragraph (tacos, taquitos, quesadilla) are unfamiliar, and they likely already appear on your menus, at least from time to time. Especially in beer-themed operations, the connection between spicy, cheesy, and tangy small plates and beverages are obvious. Between the growth of brewpubs and their dependence on food that goes well with beer, and the explosion of Mexican and Mexican-themed restaurants, there's no question that dishes with Mexican zip are now mainstream American menu concepts.

The drive of Mexican restaurants at all levels--from quick-serve Taco Bell up the line through chains like Garduno's and Chevy's Fresh Mex and all the way to fine dining operations like Rick Bayless's Topolobampo and Pricilla Satkoff's Salpicon--has bumped up the quality and range of dishes as well. Many operations may still employ buckets of pre-made guacamole, for instance, but tableside preparation of the avocado appetizer in rustic molcajetes has become a hallmark of such popular spots as the two B. R. Guest Restaurant's Dos Caminos in NYC, and the soon-to-be four unit Rosa Mexicano based in NYC.

Avocados, of course, are key to creating Mexican themed dishes, especially when your menu is more tavern than taqueria. But the stereotype dishes swamped with beans, cheese and avocado or bloated burritos won't set any restaurant apart in the crowd. Lighter dishes using seafood are perfect for today's environment, especially as restaurants may be forced to confront the growing obesity epidemic.

In a bowl, combine fish and lime juice. Cover and refrigerate up to 6 hours until fish is no longer pink when broken apart. Drain in a colander, pressing gently to remove excess juice.

In a bowl, combine tomato, olives, cilantro and chiles. Place onion in a strainer; rinse under cold water and add to tomato mixture. Just before serving, mix drained fish with tomato-serrano salsa and the olive oil. Taste and season with salt and sugar. Stir in diced avocado.

Spoon a generous tablespoon of the fish mixture on each tortilla chip; top each with a cilantro leaf. Arrange seviche tostaditas on serving plates.

RELATED ARTICLE: Classic Seviche-Avocado Tostaditas

by Chef Geno Bahena, Chilpancingo, Chicago.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

Yield: 24 tostaditas

1 lb. fresh boneless, skinless ocean fish fillets, cut in 1/4-inch dice
1 cup fresh lime juice
1 1/4 cups tomato, seeded and chopped
1/2 cup sliced pitted green olives (preferably manzanilla)
3 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves
2 tablespoons finely chopped seeded serrano chiles
1/2 cup finely chopped onion
2-3 tablespoons olive oil
3/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar (optional)
1 large diced ripe Mexican Hass avocado, peeled, pitted
24 large flat tortilla chips (preferably housemade)