Shake, Shake, Shake: put the right ingredients in a Martini glass—and you've got a winner

Cheers, May, 2004 by Cheryl Ursin

OK, SO MAYBE THEY'RE NOT TECHNICALLY MARTINIS.

THEN AGAIN, THE CUSTOMER IS ALWAYS RIGHT.

"The word 'Martini' and the word 'cocktail' have become synonymous," says Michael Waterhouse, partner and beverage manager at Dylan Prime, a top steakhouse in New York City. "People want their cocktails up in a Martini glass. It's not a wrong term anymore. It's evolved."

At Dylan Prime, the Martinis offered include the Bellini Martini (Stoli with white-peach puree), the Bloodless Mary Martini (Stoli infused with horseradish, pepper and celery seed, served in a Martini glass rimmed with celery salt), the Mojito Martini (mint-infused Bacardi served straight up with fresh lime) and the Dylan Collins (Skyy Citrus, Pallini Limoncello and fresh lemon served up in a Martini glass).

Dylan Prime also serves a selection of dessert Martinis, called Pietinis and Caketails, terms that Waterhouse has trademarked, including cocktails made to taste like German chocolate cake, peach cobbler, tiramisu, lemon meringue pie and cheesecake (made with a cream-cheese emulsion).

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At both industry (food), in New York City, and Pacific East in the Hamptons on Long Island, Daiquiris will be served up this summer in Martini glasses. "They're not going to be frozen," explains Henry Lopez, head bartender at industry (food) and the summer beverage manager at Pacific East. They are based on the classic Daiquiri--rum and limeade, in flavors including mango and mango/strawberry, served up with a floater of crushed ice. Other drinks at industry (food), including its mint julep (see recipe), are served the same way.

Whether or not these kinds of Martinis make aficionados of the traditional shudder, they are here to stay. "They remain strong," says Steve Sabol, general manager of the two-location Devil's Martini in Scottsdale, AZ. "People like the image of the Martini glass--and they want it without the hardcore alcohol taste."

OLD SCHOOL

Ari Bialikamien, bar manager of the 33 Restaurant & Lounge in Boston, who describes himself as an "old-school bartender," finds he has to agree. "I like to use the different [glassware] for the different cocktails. But so many people requested our Mango Margarita, which we served on the rocks, in a Martini glass, that we changed over," he says.

33's award-winning signature cocktail is the 33-Tini, made with fresh strawberries, muddled with sour-apple liqueur, and Hpnotiq. Another popular Martini at 33 is the Carnival, which combines pineapple-infused vodka with Cointreau, white grape juice and a splash of a dessert wine.

The Martini craze started in the mid-90s, arguably at Lola's, the Los Angeles nightclub where the Apple Martini was invented. "Now, it's mainstream to do a flavored Martini," says Greg Huebner, Lola's beverage manager.

Indeed, some Martinis, such as the apple, the Lemon Drop and, of course, the Cosmopolitan, have become established cocktails in their own right. "Everyone has an apple, a chocolate, a Cosmopolitan. We don't even put those on our list," says Sabol of Devil's Martini.

Darryl Ng, manager of Orchid, a hip restaurant in Los Angeles, agrees. "The Cosmo and the Apple, they're the Coke and 7Up of the Martini world," he says. "I don't think they'll ever go away."

At many establishments, the list is saved for house specialties. Such a list, in a world where everyone strives to have the latest and greatest cocktails, requires constant revision.

"The trick becomes: how do you keep reinventing the wheel all the time?" says Lola's Huebner. The list at Lola's runs the gamut, "everything from sweet to savory," says Huebner. Lola's Martinis, served in 10-ounce glasses and priced in the $9 to $11 range, include the "Garlic Mashed Potato Martini," made dirty with garlic-stuffed olives and Chopin, a potato vodka, to the "hyper-sweet" Watermelon Martini, made with Watermelon Pucker and tasting, says Huebner, "just like a Jolly Rancher candy."

Other favorites include the Starf**ker (made with Finlandia Cranberry Vodka, Apple Pucker and a float of Red Bull and garnished with a slice of starfruit), the Silent Night (Ketel One infused with cardamom, cinnamon and orange and lemon zest), and the Fantasy Island (made with DeKuyper Island Blue, pineapple schnapps and coconut rum, garnished with edible pansies).

NEW HORIZONS

Many establishments are looking beyond vodka, long the key ingredient of these flavored Martinis, to other spirits. Sake Martinis, often made with a combination of sake and gin, are becoming popular, while Lola's plans to feature a selection of Martinis made with Bacardi rums next month.

Meanwhile, Francesco Lafranconi, director of the Academy of Spirits & Fine Service run by Southern Wine & Spirits in Las Vegas, has developed a tequila Martini, combining a reposado tequila with a late-harvest German reisling, Grand Marnier, peach & chipotle jam and fresh lime. "It is very good for Mexican restaurants," he explains, adding that he has also used sherry and even asti spumante (with an apricot puree) in recipes.