Cheers spirits tasting

Cheers, May, 2004

This month, we inaugurate the occasional Cheers spirit tasting page. The wave of new spirits being released every month can be overwhelming, so spirits expert Robert Plotkin and Cheers editor Jack Robertiello will select relatively new products they believe worth further investigation.

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PLOTKIN'S PICKS

MAGELLAN LONDON DRY GIN is made in small batches in Cognac from triple-distilled neutral spirits, spring water and 11 freeze-dried botanicals. During final distillation, the gin is infused with iris petals. The result is a remarkably flavorful spirit with a captivating, light blue tint. Magellan Gin has a supple body and an engaging bouquet laced with the aromas of citrus and spice. Its palate features an array of tantalizing flavors that last long into the cool and crisp finish.

MAGADANSKAYA VODKA. In July 1945, Josef Stalin toasted Harry Truman and Winston Churchill at the historic Potsdam Conference with this vodka. The super-premium spirit is quadruple-distilled in Magadan, Siberia from grain, potatoes and spring water. To attain purity, it is filtered ten times through sand and Taiga Birch charcoal. Even at room temperature the vodka barely generates any heat on the palate while completely filling the mouth with delicate, crisp flavors.

WET BY BEEFEATER is surprisingly light and brimming with flavor, but not the flavor we've grown accustomed to all these years. It is a 100% pure grain spirit redistilled with a select cast of botanicals. A delicate essence of pear is introduced into the gin. The fruit adds lushness to the gin that has been heretofore unimagined. Because of its lower proof the delicate flavors of citrus and ripe pear persist well into the extended finish.

Of the seven previous vintages, EVAN WILLIAMS 1994 SINGLE BARREL BOURBON is the most impressive. The vintage dated whiskey is a slice of life that can never be duplicated. After resting for nine years in charred oak casks, the whiskey is drawn straight from the barrel and diluted to 86.6 proof. This acclaimed bourbon is a veritable extravaganza for the senses. It is endowed with a generous bouquet and a lavish palate with notes of caramel, vanilla and fruit. The finish is long and flavorful.

Domaine Charbay in Napa Valley, California is widely acclaimed as one of the finest distilleries in the world. The family-operated firm recently released two exceptional spirits, CHARBAY RUM and CHARBAY TAHITIAN VANILLA BEAN RUM. Both are triple-distilled in alembic Charentais pot stills from a proprietary blend of Hawaiian and Caribbean sugar cane syrup. The spirits have substance, expansive bouquets and are loaded with delectable flavors. As one would expect from handcrafted, artisan spirits, they both have long, memorable finishes.

ROBERTIELLO'S CHOICES

LEVEL VODKA is Absolut's entry into the super-premium vodka sweepstakes, and is reminiscent of Sundsvall, which the company imported briefly five or so years ago. Level uses both pot still and continuous distillation, and the result is subtle and smooth. A light aroma of anise yields to a supple and soft spirit on the palate with very little burn, and a touch of eucalyptus and pepper on the finish. Worth sipping on the rocks, and probably wasted in mixed drinks except for the plainest (dry vermouth only) Vodka Martini.

Flavored vodkas are often far too sweet and concentrated; not the case with BELVEDERE CYTRUS VODKA, which combines lemons and limes in a two nation (Poland and France) distilling and flavoring process. It has a delicate aroma of grated lemon rind and a subtle crushed lemon aroma, but with the tart tang removed. Slightly sweet and very lush on the palate with some residual pepperiness but little burn. Great on the rocks and more successful than Belvedere's orange flavor.

DANZKA GRAPEFRUIT VODKA, from Denmark, is another new import from the Absolut Spirits Company, aimed more at the off-premise than on-premise market, but offers a good bargain. Unlike many heavily flavored vodkas, this grapefruit vodka is tangy and slightly bitter, but not aggressive or overwhelming. Very little sweetness makes this good for mixing in cocktails in lieu of grapefruit juice.

MT. GAY VANILLA FLAVORED RUM. Lower in proof than some flavored rums and one of Mt. Gay's two new flavors (mango is the other), this burst with the aroma of vanilla pudding, soft and sweet. Almost no rum aromas or flavors make it through the vanilla cloud, making it a great alternative to cordials or liqueurs when looking for a sweet spirit in crafting cocktails.

COMPASS BOX ELEUTHERA VATTED MALT SCOTCH WHISKY is one of three new-fangled whiskies crafted in Scotland by John Glason, one of a vanguard of new whisky thinkers working to make Scotch more accessible. This one, the most impressive, merges island and mainland single malt spirits, which results in a honey, cooked oats and toffee nose that shifts into a smoky and dried fruit mouthful. Lush and powerful, with little burn even at 46 alcohol by volume, this is a great evening ender.