San Francisco's new drinks

Cheers, June, 2004 by Peg Wallace

Though long the home of wine sippers, microbrews and tourists sipping Irish Coffees at the Buena Vista, San Francisco has developed a bit of an exotic sweet tooth. And while Chocolate Martinis may be on drink menus everywhere, San Francisco bars have taken the sweet cocktails a step further, by putting an organic, and exotic, spin on things.

Aziza, the city's hippest Moroccan restaurant located in the Richmond District, is not only famous for its California-influenced Moroccan cuisine, but also for an eclectic twist on classic cocktails.

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The drinks at Aziza are designed to compliment the exotic fare. Take the Orange Blossom Martini, which blends Grey Goose L'Orange, Blonde Lillet and orange blossom water for a drink that is bright and crisp, with a hint of sweetness. The Ginger and Pear Martini combines pear-infused gin with fresh ginger muddled with Frangelico and simple syrup. Just the right flavors to balance Middle Eastern spices and ingredients such as almonds, dates, olives and preserved lemons.

For those languidly enjoying Sunday brunch at Aziza, the Morocco Mary is a blend of organic tomato juice, fresh-squeezed lime juice, vodka and harissa, a Tunisian-style hot sauce made with hot chiles, garlic, cumin, coriander, caraway and olive oil--not a beverage you'll likely find on other drink menus. The wine list is also off the beaten California-heavy path, with selections from Alsace, Spain, Germany and Lebanon, and listed on the menu under categories such as "spicy racy," "robust lavish," and "crisp dry."

LYCHEES AND MANGOES

In famed Union Square, Ian Schrager's Redwood Room at the legendary Clift Hotel, offers a variety of tantalizing Martini-style drinks, like the Lychee-tini. Although Schrager (of Studio 54 fame) is known for hotels that are cutting-edge, the Redwood Room's chic yet swanky decor is reminiscent of times gone by, with rich redwood walls and plasma screen televisions showcasing digital art. The art depicts faces of sophisticated people eerily peering over the crowd, and then suddenly moving. The clientele is as sophisticated as the drinks, with visiting celebs gracing the bar and locals trying to inconspicuously peer over their drinks to spot them.

In the flamboyant Castro district, where the stressed-out bankers, smartly dressed neighborhood locals and Banana Republic-clad types congregate post-work to blow off steam, Martuni's on Valencia Street is a hip after-work hang out. The casually dressed clientele cluster around low-lit tables and listen to the pianist crooning a different style of music every night, while sipping drinks such as the Wet Collins, a pear-infused version of the Tom Collins.

While Chocolate Martinis still grace the drink menu, the crowd tends to lean toward more serious drinks, such as Metropolitans and the classic Martini. But be careful--the bartenders pour generously and Joseph the pianist allows patrons to sing along with him, which after a few of their famous Martinis can seem like a compelling idea. Best known may be the Mango Melon Martini, a blend of vodka, Midori and mango nectar.

Andalu in the Mission District is not just a hipster hangout riding the tapas craze, but a sleekly designed bar and restaurant with inventive fare and a generous and creative wine list. General manager Craig Demko has also put together one of the best wine lists in town and is usually on hand to recommend wine pairings with a customer"s meal. His friendly demeanor takes the pressure off guests trying to navigate the list. Popular are curly polenta fries with flights of wine, and more than 70 wines are sold by the glass. Sokol Blosser's Evolution is a favorite.

With sidewalk and outdoor dining nearly year-round thanks to heat lamps, San Francisco offers not only cocktails al fresco and whimsical new creations, but also bars and restaurants that suit any mood.