Retailer wine selections

Cheers, July-August, 2004

FIVE STARS

***** 97 1998 Dunn Napa Valley Howell Mountain Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Big, bold and powerful; intense and rich with gobs of black currant fruit, smoke, spice and earth; this gem will last another 15 years. $100

***** 97 2001 Hour-glass Cabernet Sauvignon (California). A magnificent effort by Bob Foley; must decant to open this wine's silky, elegant rich and ripe dark chocolate and dark cherry. $100

***** 95 2000 Ch. Rochemorin Rouge, Pessac Leognan (France). This gorgeous Pessac shows off vivid color and a seductive bouquet of Asian spice, leather and cigar box; the fruit is a melange of currant, black cherry and hints blackberry; the balance is a nearly flawless combination of elegance and power. $25

***** 95 2001 Paul Hobbs Napa Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Great balance of oak and tannins; big, bold, black fruits; a blockbuster. $60

***** 94 2001 Gargiulo Money Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon (California). A massive wine; concentrated cassis and plum; tannic; a long finish; will age beautifully. $45

***** 93 2001 Rodney Strong Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Big and bountiful with ripe plums and chocolate in the nose; mouth-filling flavors with great structure; a magnificent finish. ($14)

***** 94 2001 Chateau Mongravey Margaux (France). Sweet aromas of jammy black fruits intertwined with vanilla and spice; mostly cabernet with just the right touch of merlot to soften it up and make it accessible now through 2010. $30

***** 93 2000 Gundlach-Bundschu Rhinefarm Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (California). A fabulous, deep, rich wine that will only improve with age. $30

***** 93 2001 Leonetti Cellar Walla Walla Valley Reserve Red Table Wine (Washington State). A blockbuster wine exhibiting incredible elegance and panache, this wine explodes with enticing red currant and black fruit aromas; on the palate, it composes itself with a beautifully layered palate; perfect with grilled lamb chops. $100

***** 93 2001 Rudd Oakville Estate Red Wine (California). An incredible effort, this wine offers both power and style; highly extracted yet smooth and well-balanced, this is one of the vintage's top wines; excellent with a Porterhouse steak. $100

***** 93 2001 Sebastiani Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Rich and intense with hints of cassis and chocolate in the nose with a melange of flavors that when swirled around the palate seem to get deeper and more elegant and leads to a truly memorable finish. $24

***** 93 2000 Casa Lapostolle Raphel Valley Clos Apalta (Chile). A well-designed blend of carmenere, merlot and cabernet sauvignon, this wine is at the top of the proverbial red Meritage game. Highly extracted and delicious, this powerful wine drinks well now; excellent with osso bucco. $55

***** 92 2000 Dominus Napa Valley Red Table Wine (California). A powerful expression of "Bordeaux" in California, this wine is big and saturated; the wine's bold presence makes it a great wine with an extra sharp Vermont White Cheddar. $100

***** 92 2001 Leonetti Cellar Walla Wally Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (Washington State). A high impact effort, the wine begins with a mix of ripe fruit and smoke; on the palate, smooth and layered; a superb wine with a standing rib roast. $71

***** 92 2000 Whitehall Lane Napa valley Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Complex aromas of berry, spice and toasted oak; ripe and lush with incredible character; pair with filet mignon. $46

***** 92 2001 Napa Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Big and bold with intense cherry, currant and plum flavors; the tannins are tight to start, eventually opening up and giving your tongue jammy pleasure. $23

***** 93 1999 Heitz Cellar Martha's Valley Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (California). An elite wine that is powerfully built; exceptional creme de cassis flavors; this cabernet lasts long and lovingly on the palate. $115

***** 92 2000 Beaulieu Vineyard Napa Valley Centennial Lot, Winemaker's Collection Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Deep brick/purple, with a dry bouquet that reveals aromas of red and black fruits, truffle, and oak; full-bodied on the palate, with ample tannin, but opulent fruit is discovered, with ripe berry, black raspberry and spice flavors; an amazingly long finish. $70

***** 92 2000 Justin Isosceles Cabernet Blend (California). Blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot; full-bodied and explosive in the mouth with subtle red cherry and cassis traces. $59

***** 92 2001 Stag's Leap Wine Cellars Artemis Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Wonderful balance; silky tannins and ripe black fruit elements; a long, complete finish. $59

***** 92 2002 Twenty Bench Napa Cabernet Sauvignon (California). Loads of blackberry, raspberry and currant flavors with a solid oak presence in the finish; a great under-$20 cab. $17.50

FOUR STARS

**** 91 2001 Pozzan Family Napa Valley Marianna Reserve Red Wine (California). A simply wonderful wine, this effort deftly combines 65% cabernet sauvignon with merlot and a small amount of petit verdot and cabernet franc; the resulting wine offers great pleasure on the palate; ripe, delicious and satiny. $35