Zeroing in on Zero Proof: Napa Valley Grille does non-alcohol right

Cheers, Sept, 2002 by Aurora Gallagher

To Napa Valley visitors, the countryside seems to be spreading itself out for a picnic. Sea breezes modulate the sunny climate, and the landscape frames a vision of The Good Life, equal parts tranquillity and adventure, hills and vineyards punctuated by wild rivers, hot geysers, mineral springs and deep lakes. A unique Wine Country cuisine that lakes. A unique Wine Country cuisine that fuces tradition and inventiveness, emphasizing freshness and seasonality, is an essential part of it.

"When we set out to create the Napa Valley Grilles," Hazem Ouf, president and CEO of Constellation Concepts, Inc., explains "we wanted the food, wine, decor, menu -- the whole experience -- to be as close as possible to visiting the Napa Valley: very good, very fresh food in a setting of refined rusticity, the hospitable elegance of Wine Country, but all done with contemporary California flair."

To realize this vision, Ouf continues, "we knew we needed a top-notch beverage program that offered our diners not just superb boutique wines, liquors, and cocktails, but also a bold and broad-based non-alcohol program, one equally able to complement and complete the dining experience."

So good is the non-alcohol program that Cheers recognized it as the best of 2002.

"A first for us!" laughs Susan Sears, manager of training and the person responsible for the beverage programs for NVG, "a beverage award that isn't about our excellent wine selection! [NVG is a past recipient of the Cheers Best Wine Program award as well.] Seriously, we were pleased as punch, because it recognizes what we wanted to accomplish. We pride ourselves on a balanced beverage program. Our Zero-Proof Beverages are completely consistent with our mission -- and my passion -- to provide a uniquely Napa Valley dining experience in our restaurants."

When challenged to develop the envisioned bold and broadly based non-alcoholic beverage program, Sears says, "I imagined I was at the Oakville Grocery Store . . . what would I want to pack for a picnic in Napa Valley?"

Napa's Oakville Grocery Company, established as a general store in 1881, is listed in the National Registry of Historic Places, and offers an extensive selection of California wines, cheeses, artisan breads, meat, fish, local produce, pastries, coffees and other beverages, and has several times been cited to be the best store in the country for picnic ingredients and specialty foods.

ZERO-PROOF DRINKS

Napa Valley Grille divides its Zero Proof Beverages into three categories: juices and lemonades, bottled beverages, and caffeine concoctions.

"Within the juices and lemonades category," Sears explains, "I like to mix the taste of fresh fruit into lemonade. The fresh fruit flavors come from Perfect Purees of Napa Valley, especially their red currant and white peach. Perfect Purees uses only field-ripened berries, fruits and vegetables, and their flavors and colors are intense. The product comes in 15-ounce plastic jars that we can fit our pour spouts into, and their shelf life is 18 months frozen, one week in the refrigerator. We use Sunkist frozen lemonade concentrate because it has proved itself the most consistent product, and we buy fresh orange juice from a local provider.

"Another set of local products we feature is ripe juices and verjus pressed from wine grapes and bottled by Navarro Vineyards; Gewurztraminer, for example and Pinot Noir. These are offered straight up and in mixed Zero Proof drinks such as 'Almost a Bellini' (gewurztraminer juice and Perfect Puree's apricot puree) and the Pinot Noir Cooler (pinot noir juice and Sprite).

Other popular non-alcoholic specialty drinks are "California Living" (fresh orange and cranberry juices) and the Zero Proof Bloody Mary (the mix, also used for the standard Bloody Mary, is made in house).

Bottled Zero Proof beverages include tea drinks from Republic of Tea, Novato, California, with flavored traditional teas like Mango Ceylon, and herbal tea blends like Ginger Peach, Raspberry Quince and Blackberry Sage. "Their bottles have a lovely shape," Sears points out, "that adds to the presentation.

"Although I go to many wine auctions and tastings," Sears continues, "there are other Napa Valley memories that are important to me, like sharing a cream soda or orange drink with my Dad. We found a source of natural soft drinks in the Napa Valley Soda Company (Calistoga Cola, St. Helena Citrus, Oakville Orange, Rutherford Root Beer, etc.), all delicious and all made from natural ingredients and beet sugar, with unique elements and flavor notes, such as hibiscus extract in the cherry soda, and eno (a grape skin extract, and possibly very good for us) in the grape soda."

"This is one of those living-the-dream Napa Valley businesses: the owner wanted to provide a natural product in a fun and artistic way. We love the labels on the bottles -- a hot-air balloon floating over the Valley, and I know we could sell a ton more of their sodas if they produced more -- the company started up just last year -- and if they could find a Chicago distributor."