What's cooking … behind the bar: "bar chefs" are taking creativity to new heights, putting some in a class by themselves

Cheers, Oct, 2003 by Michael Sherer

MORE THAN TASTE

Before even attempting to develop new recipes, according to these mixologists, bartenders have to know how to mix a good drink in the first place.

"You have to have a working understanding of the classics," said Abou-Ganim. "It really hurts me when I walk into a bar and ask for a Negroni and the bartender says, 'Sorry, dude, but we don't stock that.'"

Too many people who tend bar think of it as a part-time gig or something to do while waiting for their big career break. True bar chefs consider bartending a profession and pursue careers in it accordingly.

"I don't think most bartenders have learned the ABCs of tending bar well enough to call themselves bar chefs," Saunders said. "You have to go back to the basics first. It's important to get back to the classics."

Learning how to make classic cocktails gives bartenders a good understanding of both ingredients and balance. And they can be a constant source of inspiration for new creations.

"I've changed about half of the cocktails on the Starlight Room menu in the eight months I've been here," Dionysos said, "but they're not all new. Some are classics I'm trying to bring back. And only a couple of the cocktails I've come up with are truly original. Most are variations on classic cocktails--I just tweak something here or add something there."

ALL PRO, NO AM

Finally, people in the trade acknowledge that bartenders who aspire to this level of professionalism offer more than just an attractive, well-made, good-tasting cocktail. They offer customers an experience.

"It's not about paying homage to some guy behind the bar," Saunders said. "It's about the customer experience."

"I love to people-watch," Khania said. "Good drinks really are an art, and I love to see the look on people's faces when they taste a really good drink."

"I believe in giving customers an experience," Abou-Ganim agreed. "Like anything else, the difference between perfection and mediocrity in bartending is minimal, but it's in attention to details. Part of the enjoyment of a cocktail is watching it being made."

Bartenders who add their own creativity to drinks behind the bar give customers an added incentive to come in. Not only do they get a great drink and a great experience, but they're also likely to have an opportunity to try something new.

Since Khania instituted a Martini program at Bistro 110--including quarterly Martini flights and unusual monthly specials like Pop Rocks (to be featured on Halloween), Green Mile and Winter Kiss Martinis--sales have increased by about 17%. Annual beverage sales now top $2 million. Creative new drinks make the bar more interactive, he said.

"When you're into bartending--and you have to love it--you don't want your clientele to have the same thing over and over," said Shawn Ramdat, bartender at the Blue Bar in the Henley Park Hotel. Washington, D.C. "You want to be able to offer them something different. I think every bartender should be a chef at the bar and offer customers something new and creative once in a while."