The other America: cachaca and pisco, South America's main spirits, are making their way up north

Cheers, Oct, 2005 by Jack Robertiello

When the Mojito first swept U.S. bars and restaurants a few years ago, that rum-mint-and-lime tropical cocktail encouraged bartenders who longed to serve drinks by muddling the ingredients, smashing them in the bottom of the mixing glass with sugar and spirit. Soon, the muddler went from curiosity to an essential tool behind any cutting edge bar. It also meant that another lime based drink from south of the border, the Caipirinha (made from the Brazilian rum-like spirit cachaca, sugar and muddled limes) suddenly had a chance to break through.

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Bartenders, especially those working at South American or Brazilian restaurants, picked up on the popular drink, and another classic international cocktail became part of the contemporary professional repertoire. Now, cachaca is starting to appear behind the bar at many restaurants without a direct South American connection.

According to Eveliny Bastos-Klein, director of public relations for the Four Seasons Hotel Miami, the appeal of cachaca has spread well beyond the many versions of the Caipirinha. "Batidas were put on the menu of our outdoor bar, Bahia, because they fit into the overall Latin/tapas drink concept." The coconut, strawberry and kiwi versions of the drink served at Bahia are prepared using a traditional Brazilian recipe where the fruit pulp is blended with cachaca.

Bahia Bar and Lounge is located on the seventh floor pool terrace of the hotel overlooking the Miami skyline and Biscayne Bay. A lively outdoor setting, it features Latin American and Spanish tapas and other specialty drinks.

Batidas are traditional Brazilian blended fruit cocktails made with cachaca, but the bar also sells traditional Caipirinhas, as well as passion fruit and strawberry versions of the drink. "Because of our Miami location, many of our customers are from Latin American descent and thus such drinks are part of their heritage. Other customers are curious and willing to try them, too." These days, Caipirinhas and Mojitos are the best sellers at Bahia, with Pisco Sours coming on as well.

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Every ten years or so, pisco, the national spirit of Chile and Peru, gets rediscovered in the U.S., only to see a handful of new importers retreat from the enormous market, licking their wounds. But once again, a few importers are hoping that the new yanqui interest in all things South American will help them do well. (See sidebar.)

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Some operators are helping. Last year, Omni Hotels introduced its staff to the wonders of pisco as part of a broader Chilean food and wine promotion. New interest arrived earlier this year, when the participants in the International Bartenders Guild competition where given pisco to work with in the contest.

LOOKING SOUTH

Domestic cheese makers these days are producing authentic Latin cheeses like quesofresco and cotijo, while chefs are looking south for inspiration from Brazilian barbecue styles, Chilean empanadas and Peruvian ceviches. Is it any wonder that classic cocktails from those countries are surging as well?

In the Pearl District in Portland, OR, Peruvian foods and beverages are served in a stylish setting at the Bar Mestizo and Andina Restaurant. The operation's bar whiz Greg Hoitsma, who makes his own grenadine and infuses his own spirits, created a drink menu featuring the classics (the Pisco Sour and the Caipirinha), and what he calls "Novoandino Cocktails" like Fresa Me Mucho (pisco, strawberry-allspice compote and fresh lime), Mojito de Pina (pineapple-infused rum, muddled mint and lemongrass, and fresh lime), and Sacsayhuaman (pepper-infused vodka, passionfruit, cilantro and sugar).

Hoitsma says Pisco Sours are an easy sell in a place like Andina. "It's really a South American Sidecar, and when people understand that, they decide they might as well do the 'when in a Peruvian restaurant ...' thing." Peruvian customers often share their own secret recipes, advising Hoitsma on the correct pisco to use, the proper way to whip the egg whites, and other family secrets.

Caipirinhas do well at Andina, too, but Hoitsma points out one of the problems of making the labor-intensive drink--muddling lots of limes during a rush can back the bar up quickly. In addition, Key limes or Mexican limes are often considered preferable to the thick- and slightly bitter-skinned Persian limes most bars use, but are smaller and often yield less juice per lime. But with Caipirinhas becoming more popular, the muddling bunch can expect more, not less, opportunities to pound away.

NEW KIDS

Cachaca importers are finding lots of interest lately in their products, and are increasing their on-premise profile. In late September, spirit consultant Tony Abou-Ganim, whose spirits program recently debuted on Fine Living TV, hosted an event in conjunction with the San Francisco chapter of the United States Bartenders Guild that included a Pitu cachaca recipe and mixing competition for leading S.F. bartenders. At restaurant Rosewood, Caipirinhas. Batidas and Brazilian hors d'oeuvres preceded the competition.