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Cheers, Oct, 2005
For our final Cheers spirit tasting round-up in 2005, we're recommending recently released products selected from the flood of new spirits we receive each month. Spirits expert and Cheers columnist Robert Plotkin and Cheers editor Jack Robertiello select the products individually, based on what they've sampled recently, looking particularly for those they believe are especially noteworthy for the on-premise operator. If you'd like your product considered for the panel, contact Robertiello at 718-857-3660.
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Plotkin's Picks
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El Duende de Don Felipe Reserva Anejo Hunt down this three-year-old reserva anejo and don't share it with your in-laws. Its generous bouquet is laced with the bakery fresh aromas of vanilla, cinnamon and allspice. The palate is frontloaded with spice, but then slowly gives way to a warm, peppery glow. The body is buttery and the finish is sublime. It's an exquisite, museum-grade tequila. (El Duende LLC)
Chocoviac Cognac Chocoviac is a premium VS Cognac imbued with natural vanilla and dark chocolate flavors. Its bouquet is a dreamy affair of cocoa, vanilla and toffee. The brandy asserts itself immediately upon entry, warming the palate and adding a ripe fruit dimension to the pronounced taste of dark chocolate and vanilla. The finish is long and relaxed with a flavor reminiscent of a truffle. It's dessert in a glass. (Crillon Imports)
Charbay Green Tea Vodka Domaine Charbay, America's most respected micro-distiller, has done it again. Their recently released Green Tea Vodka is light, delicious and bone dry. The handmade vodka has a chardonnay appearance and an appealing herbal bouquet. The 70 proof spirit glides over the palate with nary a trace of heat, leaving behind the delectable flavor of freshly brewed green tea. Charbay's creation is a singularly impressive spirit. (Domaine Charbay)
Sgt. Peppermint Some products are bom out of the desire to have some fun. This lively cream liqueur falls into that category. The liqueur has a light body and vibrant, peppermint dominated nose. The fun steps up a notch on the palate as the assortment of mint flavors come to the forefront. The finish is similar to peppermint ice cream, only less sweet. It's a product loaded with applications behind the bar. (McCormick Distillers)
Pallini Raspicello Pallini Raspicello is a rare treat. The makers blend indigenous blueberries, chockeberries and black currants with wild raspberries grown in the Abruzzi region of Italy. The liqueur has a ruby, jewel-toned appearance and wafting bouquet redolent of vine-ripened raspberries. Its initial attack is predominantly the flavor of red raspbemes, but then notes of the other soft berries become easily discernible. Raspicello is marvelous from stem to stem. (Castle Brands)
Kensington London Dry Gin Grab a glass and be prepared to be seriously impressed. Kensington is a gin with a singular twist, namely that it's aged in Kentucky oak barrels. The result is breathtaking. Its warm golden appearance is at first disconcerting. The luscious perfumed bouquet dissipates any apprehensions, though, and prepares one for the waves of spicy yet refined flavors. The 94 proof spirit has a silky, protracted and flavorful finish. Bravol (Liquid Import Premium Spirits)
Han Asian Vodka Distilled in Korea and bottled in Taiwan, Han Asian Vodka is made from polished rice, select barley and spring water. The spirit is extremely delicate with a welterweight body and a hesitant, yet pleasing bouquet. Its initial attack is soft and plush, which then slowly ebbs in a wash of clean, crisp neutrality. This low-proof, Eastern interpretation of vodka is a pleasant change of pace. (Progressive Beverages)
Sauza Tres Generaciones Reposado Tequila Fans of reposado tequilas have cause to celebrate. This highly sophisticated spirit has a medium-weight body and an engaging citrus and spice bouquet. The tequila fills the mouth with a lavish array of warm flavors, largely floral and semi-sweet spices such as cinnamon, nutmeg and vanilla. The finish is long and eminently satisfying. Great tequila. (Allied Domecq/Fortune Brands)
Zen Green Tea Liqueur The latest release from the makers of Midori has an authentic green tea appearance and a rounded body without perceptible weight. The generous bouquet presents an array of enticing floral and spicy aromas. Its initial approach is semi-sweet and floral, but that's quickly replaced with the flavors of herbs, anise and green tea. From start to lip-smacking finish, 40-proof ZEN is a classy product. (Suntory)
Robertiello's Recommendations
Siku Glacier Ice Vodka This vodka comes a little late to the white spirit sweepstakes, but by no means is it the last--a new Russian brand and an Icelandic entry are on their way shortly. This one is distilled five times in small batches in the Netherlands, with Greenlandic glacier ice (hence the name) added. The nose is spare, the first taste lean but creamy, with hints of licorice and lavender, and a tangy, slightly bitter finish. Pretty package. (Velocity International)
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