Bottle basics: proper wine service never goes out of style

Cheers, Oct, 2006 by Ken Collura

Much has been written about proper wine bottle service, generally by folks whose opinions are highly valued in the restaurant community. But given the increasing sophistication of today's diners and the intense competition among dining destinations, enough cannot be said about the importance of proper wine service. Looking sharp at the table while conscientiously attending to your customers is the mark of a true professional, and today's guests value professionalism. Here are a few techniques that have worked for me over the years:

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

Approaching the Table and Taking the Order. Choose your moment to approach judiciously. If the table is discussing something avidly, lay back and wait for a lull in the conversation. After offering your services, someone generally will take the lead and describe what the table likes to drink. He or she is your host for the rest of the evening. He or she may say, "We like rich, full-bodied reds. What do you suggest?" I like to ask two things at this juncture: "What are you planning to eat, and what is your price point of happiness?" If the guests seem unsure of price, open the wine list in front of the host and point to a few full-bodied reds then slide your finger over to the prices. This should get the job done.

Once a price point is determined, never exceed it. I always bring a bottle priced below the chosen price point--let's say a $42 bottle when the host had indicated $50. You'll make lots of friends this way, and pave the way for a second bottle to be ordered.

Temperature and Stemware. To a discerning guest, the temperature at which your wine is served and into what type of glass it is poured establishes the level of commitment the restaurant has towards its wine program. Serving reds cool and whites not too cold assures the wines will perform their best.

The stemware doesn't have to be incredibly elaborate; a thin lip, more or less tulip-shaped glass with a degree of sturdiness will do the job nicely. I use Riedel Magnums, which feature a short stem and a bowl that works equally well for reds or whites.

Corkscrew and Cloth. We've all seen it: sommelier arrives at table with wine, shatters the cork and spends three minutes stabbing down the neck of the bottle for the remains, beads of sweat developing on his or her forehead. It's embarrassing on both sides--the guest thinks the sommelier is inept and the sommelier is just plain annoyed at him or herself.

Priority one is to get a corkscrew you like. It really doesn't matter what type, as long as you can open bottle after bottle flawlessly while being stared at by lots of people. I use a traditional "waiter's friend" with a soft rubber handle. I can't remember the last time I broke a cork.

Finally, always have a pliable, folded cloth with you. You'll need it for dabbing at spills, picking up hot plates, dusting off chairs and tables, catching drips, but hopefully not for mopping the aforementioned sweat off your brow.

Opening and Pouring. This is an area where personal preference comes into play. After presenting the bottle to the host with label forward and verbalizing what the label says, I prefer to set the bottle flat on the table and remove the entire capsule before pulling the cork. This method is less invasive to the wine (please don't shake the wine while attempting to slice the upper portion of the capsule off) and presents elegantly.

Place the removed capsule in your pocket and the cork in front of the host. If, after smelling the bottle, you sense "off" aromas, replace the bottle immediately. Never knowingly serve off wine. Give the host approximately two ounces to taste. Pour ladies first on tables of six or less, or clockwise from the host on tables of seven or more, always pouring the host last. Place the bottle next to the host, with the label facing him or her. Keep an eye on the table, re-pouring appropriately throughout the night.

[ILLUSTRATION OMITTED]

I'm sure I've broken no new ground here. But solid, unpretentious wine service technique is a must anywhere wine is offered by the bottle.

Ken Collura is wine director and sommelier at Andina Restaurant in Portland, Ore. and a wine writer and consultant.