Retailer wine selections

Cheers, Nov-Dec, 2004 by Jack Robertiello

The Cheers National Wine Panel recommends a lineup of top quality/value champagnes and sparkling wines.

What better time than the fall holiday season to present a selection of champagnes and sparkling wines? Great as an aperitif, an accompaniment to a wide range of holiday meals and as a celebratory beverage, sparkling wine is one of the most under-appreciated wine categories among American consumers. With this in mind, we asked the Cheers National Wine Panel (cited at the end of this article) to suggest some top quality/value champagnes and sparkling wines. As always, these selections include brief tasting notes, a rating and the wine's suggested retail price (which varies from market to market).

CHAMPAGNE & SPARKLING WINE

FIVE STARS

***** (99) Krug Rose NV (France). Unbelievable complexity; strawberry, oatmeal, cinnamon, and baked apple pie; possible one of the finest champagnes of all time. ($275)

***** (96) Krug Grand Cuvee NV (France). Impressive, intense aromatics of hot butterscotch and freshly fired creme brulee; this full-bodied champagne manages to stay light while massaging your palate with microscopic bubbles as it meanders into an extended, hedonistic finish. ($150)

***** (95) 1995 Dom Perignon (France). Pale straw color; lemon and toast aromas; elegant and creamy; long, delicious finish. ($165)

***** (95) 1990 A. Salon "Le Mesnil" Blanc De Blancs Brut (France). From the walled town of Mesnil-sur-Oger, this 100% chardonnay-based wine is superb; elegant with an impressive complexity; a rare treat. ($180)

***** (95) 1990 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs 1990 (France). Yeasty nose; impeccable tiny mousse dead center up the flute; elegant, and both crisp and creamy at the same time; an endless finish. ($150)

***** (93) Laurent-Perrier "Cuvee Rose" Brut NV (France). In its distinctive bell-shaped bottle, Laurent Perrier is always impressive; lush summer strawberries on the nose with nice complexity. ($50)

***** (94) Montaudon Tete de Cuvee 'Classe M' (France). This multivintage offering from fourth-generation owner Luc Montaudon is a showstopper; creamy vanilla is balanced wonderfully by bright citrus and flavors of freshly baked bread; soft texture is rich and decadent with hints of ripe lemons and spice on the finish. ($50)

***** (94) 1996 Duval Leroy Blanc de Chardonnay Brut (France). Creamy citrus infused fruit adorned with a touch of honey and toast. ($35)

***** (94) Bellavista Cuvee Brut, Franciacorta DOCG (Italy). Made from pinot nero, chardonnay and pinot Bianca; crisp, clean and not yeasty, with a creamy texture and a gorgeous continuous effervescence. ($30)

***** (94) 2000 Laetitia Arroyo Grande Valley Brut Rose (California). Made from hand-harvested, basket-pressed grapes in the traditional method; a lovely salmon color from skin-juice contact; aromas and flavors of rose petal and zesty berry abound; expresses pinot noir at its bubbly best. ($25)

***** (93) Bollinger Special Cuvee Brut NV (France). A great house; incredible bang-for-the-buck; pinot driven, with great yeasty notes; sweet poached apples and toffee accented by crisp acidity; elegant, rich and complex. ($43)

***** (93) Charles Heidsieck Brut Reserve (France). Visually radiant with complex aromas and flavors; fresh-baked apple pie aromas, with toasty dough notes; on the palate, flavors of warm apple, butter cinnamon and nutmeg. ($40)

***** (93) 1999 Gimonnet Brut Cuvee Gastronome (France). An interesting, early release, vintage blancs de blancs from another excellent grower/producer; bracing, crisp, clean and elegant, with surprising richness on the long, polished finish. ($40)

***** (92) Piper-Heidsieck Brut Champagne NV (France). This medium-gold sparkler shows off a wonderfully full bouquet redolent of fresh bread dough; luscious on the palate, with plush fruit flavors of honeydew melon and tart citrus, all nicely framed by firm acidity. ($35)

***** (92) 1999 Schramsberg Blanc de Blancs (California). The quintessential domestic sparkling wine. A deep straw yellow in color with a rather sophisticated bouquet; deep and complex with fine strands of tiny bubbles and a finish that lingers on. ($24)

***** (92) Louis Roederer Brut Premier NV (France). A delicious complex wine showing nice yeast components with berry and citrus; nice, firm structure with a toasty long finish. ($44)

***** (92) Paul Goerg, Blanc de Blancs Premier Cru Champagne NV (France). Soft and elegant, showing a wide variety of citrus fruit, and ripe pear, with just a hint of spice; bright fruit does not overwhelm the medium-bodied frame but remains lively on the palate; a great value for Premier Cru Champagne; perfect for a special occasion with delicate flavors to please any palate. ($28)

***** (92) Gaston Chiquet Brut Tradition (France). Another fine "grower/producer," this champagne is medium to full-bodied with a nice hint of toastiness and plenty of bright, apple notes on the long finish. ($30)

***** (92) Domaine Chandon Etoile (California). Tiny bubbles elevate a complex bouquet of almond, honey and buttered toast with a distinctive hint of citrus blossoms; long, soft and creamy with flavors of Fuji apples candied ginger and a savory hazelnut spice; the flavors intensify and build to a longer, yet lively, finish. ($29)