The inside scoop on the ICW

Boat/US Magazine, Jan, 2005 by Tom Neale

The ICW is a smorgasbord of the very finest of cruising: great marinas, excellent restaurants and wilderness anchorages. You seldom need to worry about finding help, supplies, fuel, tourism fixes, or marina breaks. As always, never get too low on fuel or water.

Following are a few of our favorite stops.

Virginia -- Linger in the Hampton Roads area before you begin the trip. A tie up at, for example, Bluewater Yachting Center in Hampton, VA, puts you within easy reach of Virginia's historic triangle of Williamsburg/Jamestown, Yorktown, and Hampton Roads.

North Carolina -- Beaufort has marinas, limited anchorage, and nearby beaches. At Beaufort Town Docks in the heart of this old seafaring village, you can see wild horses on a barrier island across the channel. Elizabeth City (reach it by taking the very worthwhile diversion of the Dismal Swamp Canal) has limited free tie-ups and "Rose Buddies" who bring visitors flowers, and welcome. The Southport/Wilmington/Bald Head Island area has quaint villages, Bald Head Island Marina with great beach access, and Wilmington Marine Center for protected access to the charming historical city of Wilmington.

South Carolina -- Charleston, with marinas and limited anchorage, is famous for its culture, history, and restaurants. You'll pass Fort Sumpter where the War Between the States began.

Georgia -- Cumberland Island has anchorages and a wilderness preserve, including oft-deserted beaches, at its southern end. You'll share the trails with wild horses, wild turkeys and other creatures.

Florida -- St. Augustine is the oldest permanent European settlement in the U.S. Its fort, Spanish architecture, shops and restaurants make a fascinating stop. We love Camachee Cove Marina here, with its enclosed basin, two lounges, Internet access, two loaner cars and yacht yard.

Ft. Lauderdale, called the Yachting Capital of the World, has 300 miles of navigable waterway with over 42,000 registered boats and 109,000 people working full time in the marine industry. With so many businesses offering boating goods and services, you can get anything you need for good prices. Anchorage is limited and marinas are often full, but Jamie Hart, the city's Supervisor of Marine Facilities, helps boaters find a place. The city operates three marinas (800-FTL-DOCK), with reasonable rates.

Put it down, today, on your life's calendar. Promise to do yourself the favor of traveling at least a part of the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway. When you come, hopefully we'll see you out here.

Tom Neale and his wife, Mel, live aboard their 53-foot motorsailer and have cruised full-time for the last 25 years. Tom's cruising log and ICW updates can be found on BoatUS.com.