Block Island - Our Favorite Places

Boat/US Magazine, March, 2004 by Scott Croft

Old Harbor's "downtown" is just five streets. But there are plenty of restaurants and shopping to satisfy anyone. Dining can lean towards the pricey side, but I found some good value in the clam roll platter at Rebecca's Seafood on Water Street, a tiny diner with picnic tables.

Water Street, which faces the small harbor and ferry landing, is at the epicenter of Block Island activity. Like the tide passing through a narrow cut, the regular traffic of off-island visitors ebbs and flows through the landing's gangplank.

Meanwhile, Great Salt Pond and New Harbor are about a square mile in area located roughly in the center of Block Island. Formerly cut off from the sea, a hurricane opened a cut to the west that now allows entry to even the deepest draft sailboats. Three marinas, Payne's Dock, Block Island Boat Basin, and Champlin's Marina service the hundreds of vessels that take refuge on either anchor, public moorings (387 of them) or marina docks at Old Harbor.

Anyone who has spent time in the Pond will tell you one of the best treats is to be awakened by the operatic shouts of "Andiamo," wafting across the water in a baritone voice--"Let's go!" in Italian. That's the signal coming from the Aldo's Bakery boat making its rounds delivering warm Portuguese breads and other baked goodies.

Pre-college entrepreneurs in a Boston Whaler have been known to deliver ice and up to 30 gallons of water, and there is a water taxi service. The town offers a free and convenient pumpout service on the Pond, which was the state's first "no discharge" harbor.

While the majority of about 40 watering holes and eateries are in Old Harbor, several also dot the New Harbor waterfront. A monument to back-straining self-propulsion, "The Oar," was my favorite. You'll see what I mean when you get there.

No matter where you go, you'll find a good smattering of live music, from reggae to rock, but the solo-acoustic-guitarist-factor can be high during afternoon happy hours.

A New England resort town isn't complete without a beach, and Block Island has 17 miles of them--all public. I checked out Crescent Beach on Corn Neck Road and found it pleasantly uncrowded, framed by flowering dunes and whipped cream-like Atlantic surf. Most of the broad sand beaches are on the east side of the island, while the southern end is full of rock-and-sand coves requiring a little agility to access.

After three days on Block, I sadly headed home on the Pt. Judith Ferry. But like a diner finishing a good dessert, I was already wishing for a second serving.

RELATED ARTICLE: MUST DO'S WHILE ON BLOCK ISLAND

* Be kind to the island: Don't walk on dunes, take what you brought in, and conserve water.

* Have lunch on a historic grand hotel veranda (the National Hotel is my favorite). This is one of the best ways to feel the island's "vibe."

* Block is a biking island. Bring or rent one.

* Take a taxi tour: arranged by the hour, this is the only way to see all corners of the island and get some local flavor.

* Best attractions for parents: Block Island Historical Society, Southeast Lighthouse Museum (this famous light was moved 300 feet in 1993 to save it from erosion), and a walk in Rodman's Hollow.