Checklist for spring: for a trouble-free summer, spend a few hours now

Boat/US Magazine, May, 2003

Everyone looks forward to a carefree summer and time to kick back on the boat and relax. While tarps, leaves and cobwebs are cleared for the season ahead, think about how your boat fared this winter with the record snow and rain in much of the country. Insurers and towers have been extra busy this spring with sinkings at the dock and calls for assistance, much of it weather-related. If all you plan to do is slap on a coat of bottom paint and get your boat back in the water, consider how an engine failure or need for a tow could cut into your summer fun.

A complete safety inspection of the engine, hull, and other systems will take less time than you think and pay off handsomely throughout the boating season.

* Out of the Water

Inspect and lubricate seacocks. Hoses and hose clamps (two at each fitting below or near the waterline) should be inspected and replaced as necessary. This is also the best time to replace gate valves, if any, with seacocks. Gate valves are prone to failure and are not as reliable as seacocks.

Replace deteriorated zincs. They disintegrate and give a good indication of what would happen to vital underwater machinery if the zincs were not there. Note: If the zinc has vanished or has been reduced to powder, check the other metal surfaces, especially underwater, to make sure they did not also suffer from electrolysis. Zincs that disappear after less than one season indicate a serious problem. (Look first for chafed wires or battery cables, which also have the potential to cause a fire.)

Inspect prop(s) for dings, pitting, and distortion that can create excessive vibration and can loosen everything from screws and bulkheads to dental fillings. Make sure cotter pins are secure. "Tired" props, incidentally, can be rejuvenated by a machine shop. Finally, grip the prop and try moving the shaft. Looseness indicates the cutlass bearing probably needs to be replaced.

Check to make sure the rudder stock hasn't been bent. Also try moving the rudder. Any looseness must be corrected.

Inspect the hull for blisters, distortion, and stress cracks. Small "pinhead" blisters can be dried, sanded, and filled. Large blisters may require professional attention. Distortion and/or stress cracks are two other hull problems that should be addressed by a marine surveyor or repairer.

Make sure the engine intake sea strainer is free of corrosion and is properly secured. Strainers that were not drained properly in the fall could have been bent by ice over the winter. Replace any questionable parts.

* Outdrives & Outboards

Inspect rubber outdrive bellows for cracked, dried, and/or deteriorated spots (look especially in the folds). A bellows that is suspect should be replaced.

Replace deteriorated outdrive zincs.

Check power steering and power trim oil levels. Follow manufacturer's maintenance schedule or use a factory-authorized mechanic.

* Control Cables

Inspect outer jacket. Cracks or swelling indicate corrosion and mean that the cable must be replaced. (Note: Don't try to remedy by squirting lubricant into the cracks or wrapping duct tape around the outer jacket; most lubricants are incompatible and will make things worse.)

* In the Water

Check the engine shaft and rudder stuffing boxes for steady leaks and looseness. Some weeping or even an occasional drip should be evident at the engine shaft stuffing box (not the rudder). If leaking cannot be stopped by tightening the nut, the gland should be repacked. (Caution: Over-tightening the nut prevents leaking under way, which burns out the packing material.)

Use a hose to check for deck leaks at ports and hatches. Renew caulk or gaskets as necessary. Don't rely on a bilge pump to overcome a multitude of leaks.

* Engines and Fuel Systems

Inspect fuel lines, including fill and vent hoses, for indications of softness. brittleness, or cracking. Any that are suspect should be replaced with Coast Guard-approved J-1527 hose. Check all joints for leaks (or use your finger and look for stains under or around the fitting) and make sure all lines are well supported with non-combustible clips or straps with smooth edges.

Inspect all of the other components in the fuel system--fuel tanks, fuel pumps, filters--for leaks. A dry rag can be used at connections or you can trust your nose. Clamps should be snug and free of heavy rust. Clean fuel filters.

Cooling hoses should also be inspected for signs of old age -- stiffness, rot, cracking or leaks.

Clean and tighten electrical connections, especially ends of battery cables. Loose connections can "arc," which creates an enormous amount of heat and is a fire hazard. Studs, nuts, and washers should be copper -- not aluminum or steel.

Wire brush battery terminals and fill cells with distilled water.

Inspect bilge blower hose for leaks.

* Other Tasks

Clean bilges. Inspect bilge pump and float switch to make sure they are working properly.

Refill or replace fire extinguishers as necessary. (Note: Place all extinguishers where they will be clearly visible.)