.22 long rifle velocity

Guns Magazine, Dec, 2004 by Jeff John

Q: I recently read an article describing certain modern carbines chambered for pistol calibers. (I don't recall the exact article.) The writer noted that as barrel length increases, muzzle velocity increases, but only to a point. The small amount of powder in small, straight-walled pistol cartridges burns quickly and, in some especially long barrels, the pressure of the expanding gases is already decreasing by the time the bullet leaves the barrel. (Or something like that.) So, presumably, there is an optimum barrel length, relative to velocity, for any given load.

I would like to know the optimum barrel length, relative to velocity, for a typical .22 LR cartridge. I would especially like to know the point at which a .22 rim-fire barrel is "too long."

Phil Rokke via e-mail

A: The optimum barrel length for a rifle shooting either standard or high velocity .22 LR cartridges is 19 1/2" according to Bo Clerke (Clerke Int. Arms, 505/445-0100, www.clerkebarrels.com). Some iron-sighted high-end target rifles such as the Anschutz can be ordered with either a 27" barrel or 20" barrel with a bloop tube fitted to extend the sight radius to the same length as the longer barrel. At the 1,050 fps most target loads travel, it is best to get the bullet out of the barrel quickly when shooting off-hand, but the sight radius is crucial, too. Even if the 20" barrel is most efficient, such short barrels may not be the most aesthetically pleasing on a bolt-action hunting rifle. Such a rifle may look truncated with a 20" barrel and the choice of a 22" or 24" may look more pleasing. A single shot such as a Winchester Low Wall or Marlin Ballard may look wrong unless a 24" or 26" barrel is present. The difference in ammo performance will prove inconsequential between 20" and 24" on a hunting rifle and if some Olympic scores are evaluated, 27" is no detriment, either.

--Jeff John

Q: First of all I would like to thank you all for a wonderful magazine! I have been a loyal subscriber for years and I truly believe your magazine is the best of all the publications on the subject I can choose from. I would like to ask a question about the venerable .303 British cartridge. In our dealings with guns and those who love them, we all have opportunity to hear experiences and stories. Some of these stories we can chalk up as "fish stories" and drive on, while others are worth further investigation. I heard a story yesterday from a source I consider quite credible. The gentleman told me that the .303 British cartridge is by nature, thin at the base and subject to case separation or splitting after a few reloadings, due to this flaw. He suggested reforming .303 brass from some other caliber brass (unfortunately, I do not recall the caliber) as the other cartridge's brass is thicker at the base.

How valid is the statement that .303 British brass is subject to splitting at the base due to thin walls? If using handloads with the correct charge, I would think that if brass was splitting, it was most probably because of a headspace problem. If there is validity to this story, what do you suggest to use for brass and what else can I do to eliminate the splitting or at least extend the life of my hand-loaded cartridges? Since I plan to purchase an Enfield rifle, I am quite curious about the proper feeding and care of such a pet. Thank you for your time and consideration.

Martin Visnak via e-mail

A: If you really had to make .303 British brass, .30-40 Krag would be the substitute case. I really don't think it would be worth the bother, though. If your Enfield has proper head space, you should get good reloading life from any quality .303 brass. In addition, the head-stamp will be properly marked. For reloading, I would stick to brass made by any of our name domestic makers like Remington, Winchester or Hornady. Hornady only sells' loaded ammunition, but the brass is excellent. Remington and Winchester brass can be bought in bulk, which helps keep the price down.

I'd stay away from used or surplus brass for reloading. The primers are often crimped in surplus amino and the crimp then has to be removed before a new primer can be installed. Also, much .303 surplus amino is Berdan primed. Berdan-primed brass is difficult and very expensive to reload. Another reason to stay away from used brass is because of the variance in chamber dimensions between Enfield rifles, It's better to reload brass originally fired from your rifle.

Buying a bag of brass in bulk lets' you keep track of loadings and minimizes differences in internal volume. Hornady makes a 174-grain FMJ boattail bullet and Sierra makes a 174-grain hollowpoint boattail MatchKing bullet that are excellent choices. Huntington Die Specialties, (530) 534-1210, www.huntingtons.com or Midway (573) 445-6363, www.midwayusa.com) are both good sources for .303 components.

If you don't currently own an Enfield, and you just want a good shooter, look for one marked "FTR" with a post-war date on the metal joint between the stock and the fore-end. The FTR mark means "Factory Thorough Repair" and is indicates an arsenal rework. These often have a new barrel chambered to closer tolerances than late war production rifles and will be properly headspaced. After all this time, though, it is still wise to have the rifle looked over by a gunsmith before shooting it.