The lazy man's Guide To Gun Cleaning: If you can't clean hard, says this veteran shooter, at least clean smart

Guns Magazine, June, 2002 by Massad Ayoob

You might want to consider the Deluxe ($120) treatment, which is the same as above plus a hand burnishing of all parts with BP2000, a powder finer than graphite which adds lubricity and reduces the friction coefficient by another 10 to 20 percent over the base Smooth-Kote. For either of these jobs, figure $35 for the return shipment of your handgun. Two caveats: some of us find the silvery-gray tone of the treated gun kind of ugly, and the treatment gives lubrication, not rust prevention. Your gun will still need some routine maintenance attention. When it gets dirty, a light wipe-out with a nylon brush or a couple of minutes with a compressed air hose whisks away carbon, which no longer seems to stick. Notes Devoid, "Even on a revolver with lots of lead buildup around the forcing cone, a toothpick will take it off after the gun has been given the Sentry Solutions treatment."

For information contact Tarnhelm Supply, 431 High St., Boscawen, NH 03303, www.tarnhelm.com.

The Absolute Minimalist

Being old and lazy, I can even undercut Marty Hayes' minimum recommended equipment when I need to. I find paper towels handier than rags. Like Marty, I'd rather have Hoppe's #9 or another good, dedicated solvent, but can get by with Break-Free and am just as happy with FP-l0.

Where Marty likes toothpicks, I like the tips of ballpoint pens, swathed in bits of paper toweling if need be. Toothpicks can break off little bits of wood inside the gun; on the other hand, little shreds of toweling can get caught there, too. Six of one, half-dozen of the other. However, unlike toothpicks, pen tips do a good job of holding back plungers when re-inserting 1911 slide stops.

Secrets of the Ninja

Emergcncy Lube. When you run out of your favorite gun cleaning fluids, you may find that the only lubricant/rust-preventative available locally is the ubiquitous WD-40. This product is all but universally condemned by gunsmiths. "It may be OK as a detergent, but it's a lousy lubricant," we are told. "It evaporates too easily." "It sets up and turns into shellac."

Yeah. OK. Got it. However, I've been places where it was WD-40, the most widely distributed product of its kind, or nothing. I've found that it is, indeed, a good detergent when you don't have a dedicated solvent. It also keeps the gun lubed perfectly well for the few days you need it to do so. If in doubt, clean and re-apply more frequently until you are again within reach of your favorite lubricant.

Besides, WD-40 smells good...

De-Greasers. Yes, these products save a lot of scrubbing, which is why the most popular of them is called Gun Scrubber (TM). Yes, as a matter of fact, much cheaper carburetor cleaner from the hardware store or discount mart seems to perform exactly the same function. Remember, however, the following:

(1) Any such product using carbon tetrachloride or similar chemicals needs lots of ventilation, or it can make you really sick. Outdoors is the best place to do it, preferably with a breeze blowing it away from you. (2) Wear gloves. Laughridge is right: use nitrile gloves. (3) Wear eye protection. I've been hit in the eyes accidentally with Gun Scrubber. I've also been hit with pepper spray. I'm not sure which is worse.