Despite the efforts of government and the food sector, trans fats likely here to stay

Food & Drink Weekly, August 22, 2005

The recent appeal by New York City's Department of Health for restaurants to stop serving food containing trans fats could be a "wake-up call to a cholesterol-conscious nation," according to a Washington Post editorial. Dr. Thomas Frieden, the New York City health commissioner, comparing trans fats to toxic substances like asbestos or lead, asked restaurants to stop serving foods that contained them.

New York's initiative may spur other cities to consider following their lead. The Post says "the evidence is clear: Researchers agree that it [trans fats] raises the 'bad' cholesterol levels in blood, increasing the risk of heart disease" and that "trans fat is also believed to lower 'good' cholesterol, with its artery-clearing properties."

However, in the view of many scientists who have examined the data, trans fats are not the main problem with American diets. The National Academy of Sciences, the Department of Health and Human Services, the National Heart Lung and Blood Institute and the Food and Drug Administration have all come to the same conclusion: Trans fats are on a par with saturated fats, like butter or lard. Both increase cholesterol levels and most people would be better off if they ate less of all of them. "What's Public Enemy No. 1 with respect to cholesterol raising?" asked Dr. James Cleeman, coordinator of the National Cholesterol Education Program of the National Heart, Lung and Blood Institute. "From a dietary standpoint, it's saturated fat."

Many restaurants and food companies still are moving away from trans fats. Some health-conscious restaurants have switched from cooking with shortening and stick margarine (which are high in trans fat) to olive, peanut, sunflower or other oils that contain none. A number of U.S. food manufacturers, including the makers of Oreo cookies, Crisco oil, Cheetos and Doritos, are eliminating or reducing trans fat from their products or introducing alternatives that do so. McDonald's has also moved to modify its french fry recipe to reduce, though not eliminate, the trans fat content.

Because of taste preferences and the high cost of alternative ingredients, the Post concedes that trans fats are not likely to totally disappear from the American diet anytime soon. However, the editors believe "a public education campaign might go a long way toward making consumers smarter and inducing those who make, sell and serve food to offer more wholesome alternatives and to contribute to a healthier population."