Galapagos Archipelago - Brief Article

Cruise Travel, July, 2000 by Suellyn Preston

Cruising "The Islands Of Evolution" In Style Aboard The Galapagos Explorer II

Less than three hours after landing on the tiny airstrip at San Cristobal, we were crouched on a dark-sand beach staring eye to eye at sea lions, while brown pelicans swooped down to the clear blue water looking for their evening meal. Blue-footed boobies perched on nearby cliffs had our cameras working overtime, and frigate birds soared above as we returned to the ship in the pangas (dinghies), the sun setting between the twin peaks of Kicker Rock. As we soon came to understand, the wildlife seemed completely oblivious to human visitors, a surprise and the highlight of the trip to the Galapagos, naturalist Charles Darwin's famous "Islands of Evolution" off the northwest coast of South America.

Until fairly recently, the adventure of exploring the remote Galapagos Archipelago had meant leaving behind some of the comforts of home. Now you can travel in considerable style ensconced aboard what modern-day cruisers have come to expect from the small, top-end passenger ships. The Galapagos Explorer II is just such a vessel. Built in 1990 as the Renaissance III, pan of an eight-ship series, the 4,077-gross-register-ton ship was purchased in 1997 by Canodros S.A., an Ecuadorian firm, to replace an older Galapagos Explorer. She sails on three-, four-, and seven-night itineraries, embarking passengers at Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, on San Cristobal Island.

The Galapagos Explorer II accommodates 100 passengers in 50 spacious air-conditioned suites lined with dark faux-wood paneling and decorated in warm dusty-rose fabrics. My deluxe suite (235 square feet) on Marco Polo Deck had three large picture-windows, which provided ample daylight, and a sitting area with a sofa, chair, and small glass-topped table--comforts that encourage passengers to read and relax in their cabin. Two full-length closets help make up for the minimal drawer space for clothes storage. Bathrooms have a large shower stall, wooden floor, and marble-topped counter space. Additional amenities include a mini-bar, two lock-drawers for valuables, a hair-dryer, telephone, and TV/VCR. A limited selection of videos is available from the library, and current movies are shown every day at 1:30 p.m. and 9:30 p.m., times when most passengers are likely to be aboard.

On the lower Columbus Deck, there are similar-size suites, and Erickson Deck above has slightly smaller 215-sq.-ft. suites. On the lowest Magellan Deck, forward of the dining room, four deluxe suites (slightly bigger at 250 sq. ft.) come with large walk-in closets and a curtain separating the sitting area from main cabin; extra privacy is provided by portholes cut into the ship's hull rather than the picture-windows that look onto the side promenades. The largest suites are four nested by themselves up on Explorer Deck at 287 sq. ft., with similar layout and furnishings, but adding private balconies. There are also two dedicated single cabins.

The Main Lounge, located aft of the attractive Reception foyer on Columbus Deck, serves as the lecture hall and, on some evenings, a local band or a trio made up from the crew plays for dancing. Tastefully furnished in pale blues, the seats can be arranged to suit the occasion--in clusters for socializing or in rows for lectures.

A curved stairway leads from the lounge up to the Piano Bar, an inviting space with comfortable seating around tables and stools at the bar, open from 9 a.m. until midnight. All drinks, except for wine and champagne, are complimentary. It's the gathering spot before dinner to swap stories of the day's excursions and to listen to the excellent pianist. The adjacent Library has a small stock of fiction and an adequate number of reference materials to aid in identifying fishes and birds seen ashore and for regional research.

Portholes provide a nautical touch to the attractive Dining Room, partitioned by screens into three distinct areas with tables set for two, four, and six or eight. Open seating is the rule at breakfast, but the maitre d' requests that passengers sit at the same table in the evening so the waiters can get to know you. The buffet breakfast caters to both American and European tastes, and offers local delicacies such as fried plantains with cheese. At dinnertime, the fixed menu may include an appetizer such as melon and prosciutto, soup, dessert, and entrees such as Galapagos lobster with curry sauce, filet mignon with mushroom sauce, or fresh local fish--all tasty but not gourmet.

The luncheon buffet served aft on Erickson Deck by the pool includes a soup, salads, two entrees, one of which is Ecuadorian, and desserts. During midday meal hours, the pool bar helps quench thirsty throats, and an awning provides shelter from the hot sun. After an energetic shore excursion, especially at day's end, the pool and Jacuzzi are popular haunts. Although there is a designated Sun Deck, located forward of the top suites, it doesn't see much use as passengers are ashore for most of the day, and during the lunch-time break, the sun is too strong for sun-bathing.