South American sojourn: exploring the West Coast of South America aboard the Marco Polo - Cruise of the Month - Orient Lines cruise

Cruise Travel, July-August, 2002 by Theodore W. Scull

Prior to the Panama Canal transit, the Marco Polo docked at the Pacific port of Balboa, and we drove inland by van along dirt roads to the muddy banks of the fast-flowing Chagres River, the principal source of water for operating the canal locks. Climbing into a long, tippy motorized dugout canoe, we sputtered up through the rapids to a stilted Indian village set in the rain forest. The Indians had moved here from the remote Darien jungle to be closer to schools, medical attention, and markets.

Then at dawn, we began the Panama Canal transit, locking through in tandem with the motor/sailing ship Wind Song. Most of the opposing traffic consisted of container ships, and the passage lasted an unusually long 10 1/2 hours because of delays entering the Gatun Locks. It was good to see the parallel Panama Railroad rebuilt and electrified and again offering both freight service and passenger excursions.

Dropping down through the three Gatun chambers into the Caribbean at sunset, the Marco Polo turned west for Puerto Limon, Costa Rica. Some opted for a wildlife-watching trip along the Tortuguero Canal, but we headed inland to a banana plantation research station, where we walked deep into a cloud forest to look and listen for howler monkeys and spider monkeys, plus a few birds.

Finally, Cartagena, a popular cruise port in Colombia, offered a high-speed launch out to 17th century Spanish fortifications at the harbor entrance, a close-up view of an island fishing village, and a colonial district walking tour that followed a good restaurant lunch. With running-mate Crown Odyssey also in port, the two ships hosted festive open houses for passengers and crew.

While we debarked in Aruba, the Marco Polo continued on to Barbados and then went trans-Atlantic to begin her European season. The West Coast of South America is not an especially easy place to make port calls and inland visits, but given a generous budget, the destinations are most rewarding for the highly varied scenery and Indian and Spanish colonial heritage.

The Marco Polo embarks on a similar 21-day cruise-tour on March 18, 2003, from Santiago (Valparaiso) to Ft. Lauderdale (Florida) via the West Coast of South America and the Panama Canal. Differences to the itinerary described herein are that Manta, Ecuador, replaces La Salinas; the San Blas Islands are called on instead of Balboa; and debarkation is in Ft. Lauderdale instead of Barbados. Rates, inclusive of port charges and gratuities, start at $5,150, with the second person going for half price (not including gratuities). Airfare is extra.

For more information contact your travel agent or Orient Lines (Cruise Travel Magazine), 1510 SE 17th St./Suite 400, Fort Lauderdale, FL 33316; or log on to www.orientlines.com.