Oslo: Norway's capital playground is in harmony with the land and sea

Cruise Travel, July-August, 2005 by Theodore W. Scull

The beauty of Oslo is easily threefold--the scenic approach from the sea along the 62-mile-long Oslo Fjord, the center-city docking location below Akershus Castle, and the gentle charm of its parks, waterfront, tree-lined boulevards, and urban architecture.

Oslo is old--and yet not very. Way back in time it was the capital of Norway, then lost that status, and eventually regained it at the beginning of the 20th century--all further complicated by the neighboring Danes and Swedes interrupting Norway's sovereignty.

The Kingdom of Norway does not have an especially large population, numbering just 4.5 million, but the country exported a higher percentage of its people to the United States than any other, settling in a broad band from the Upper Midwest to the Pacific Northwest. New York City was a large recipient, especially in the area of Bay Ridge near the Verrazano-Narrows Bridge, where the immigrants would become known as Brooklyn Norwegians.

Oslo was founded more than a millennium ago, and during its first 900 years lost half its population to the Black Death; later became a province under Danish rule; burned down and was reborn in a new location at Akershus Castle and renamed Christiania; and in 1814 was united with Sweden. Finally in 1905, Norway achieved its present state of independence, and following the 300th anniversary of Christiania, the capital again became Oslo on January 1, 1925.

Today's Oslo counts 550,000 inhabitants, and for the visitor the city is relatively compact and easily accessible on foot and via boat, bus, metro, and tram. When cruise ships arrive, the city sets up an information booth right at the pier. The principal tourist office is located next to the prominently sited City Hall, with a branch in the Central Railway Station. For intense sightseers, an Oslo Pass provides great convenience as it includes one-, two-, or three-day use of all city transit and entry to most popular attractions.

Akershus Castle, looming above the cruiseship dock, is a good place to start, as within its walls an elevated park has free access for sweeping views across the harbor to Bygdoy, location for much of Norway's maritime and architectural history, and to ferry traffic arriving every morning after overnight runs from Copenhagen and Frederikshaven (Denmark) and Kiel (Germany).

Constructed in 1299, the castle first served as a royal residence, then 300 years later became fortified with cannon protection, and in the mid 17th century was rebuilt in the present Renaissance style. Today you can visit the castle church (16th century with 18th century additions), banqueting and reception halls, and the royal mausoleum. The complex also incorporates the Norwegian Armed Forces Museum, detailing military history dating from the Vikings, and the Resistance Museum, with documents, newspapers, photographs, posters, and recordings telling the poignant story of the five-year German occupation of Norway during World War II, including a list of the patriots shot here from 1940-1945.

Close to the castle in the direction of the Central Railway Station, an area of old Christiania still stands with buildings, including a former orphanage and early 19th century Stock Exchange, now housing small offices, cafes, and art galleries. A model, depicting Christiania 200 years ago, is located in a former hay barn just outside the castle walls.

On the far side of Akershus Castle, the principal shopping district stretches along Karl Johans Gate from the Central Railway Station (which houses its own shopping center), past the Oslo Cathedral (dating to 1690, with an 1850 steeple), to the 1866-built Parliament Building. Restaurants, cafes, and some of the smarter hotels also line the wide boulevard and adjacent streets, with various blocks pedestrianized. Visit the flower market at Stortorvet (main square) opposite the cathedral. While prices are high throughout Scandinavia, so is the quality of Norwegian knitwear, especially scarves and sweaters, glass, jewelry, and wooden crafts.

City Hall, facing the harbor, was a highly controversial building when completed in 1950 because of its stark brick style and bold square twin towers, but today it is simply an accepted centerpiece of central Oslo. Its clock serves as a timepiece for the city and harbor, and its interior spaces are decorated by Norwegian artists. The Nobel Peace Prize is presented here every December 10. (In June 2005 a brand-new Nobel Peace Center opened in the former Oslo West Railway station near the harbor providing interactive high-tech displays and a forum for lectures and debates about promoting peace.)

Continuing along the waterfront, Aker Brygge, a former shipyard and warehouse district, draws hundreds of pleasure seekers during summer days that stretch well into the long daylit evenings for the outdoor cafes and restaurants, street and indoor entertainment, and wide range of shops. Take time to stroll through the crowds and find a spot to roost for people- and ship-watching. Ferries leave continuously from the adjacent piers for some of the 40 islands in the Oslo Fjord. At mealtime, consider sampling some of Norway's seafood and game, such as fresh salmon, herring, shrimp, reindeer steak, and steamed cod with liver and roe.