Chankanaab National Park: capture Cozumel in a nutshell at this vibrant attraction

Cruise Travel, July-August, 2005 by Max Hunn, Bea Hunn

For us, it always adds spice to a return visit to a destination when we discover an attraction we'd missed on our earlier call. Such was the case on our latest cruise stopping at the popular Mexican island of Cozumel, 12 miles off the coast of the Yucatan, when we found the Chankanaab National Park.

Chances are we would have missed the park on our initial visit. We certainly wouldn't have had time to enjoy it, being so busy taking in the island's other attractions, such as the Mayan ruins of San Gervasio, the picturesque town of San Miguel (the only one on the island), and the beautiful, white sandy beaches--bathed by rough seas on the eastern shore and calmer waters on the western side. Cozumel is surrounded by a 20-mile coral reef--the second largest in the world (and part of the national park)--which, along with the clarity of the waters, earned the island worldwide fame as a dive spot.

The Spanish discovered Cozumel in the 16th century. During World War II, it was rediscovered by American servicemen training for scuba work in the South Pacific. More recently, cruise lines have found it a popular call on Western Caribbean itineraries, and most offer Chankanaab National Park as a shore excursion (if not, you can easily arrange a visit on your own; it's just a few miles from the cruise-ship piers).

You are welcomed to Chankanaab ("Little Sea") in an impressive entrance/information area that presents several choices. You can pause to pose for pictures with several colorful macaws--always a delight for children and, almost as often, for adults. Or you can proceed directly ahead to the beautiful Chankanaab Lagoon--which, oddly, is saltwater, and surrounded by the world's only inland coral-reef formation. The lagoon--actually a tremendous sinkhole, filled by the sea though a trio of natural tunnels--is a natural aquarium comprising some 60 species of tropical fish, crustaceans, and coral.

By swinging slightly to the right, you can head for the beautiful Caribbean white-sand beach. Bring your swimsuit, towel, and sunscreen. There are bathrooms, freshwater showers, changing rooms, and lockers. Snorkeling gear can be rented, and snuba and scuba diving can be arranged. Stake out a chair in the shade of a palapa, or just bask in the sun.

Turning left, you can head for either the fascinating Archeological Park with its free guided tours or the Botanical Garden with its display of more than 350 plant species from 22 countries, including 60 types of palms, a huge collection of water lilies and orchids, plus 450 indigenous plants, the largest bamboo curtain on the Yucatan Peninsula, and hundreds of exotic birds.

We choose to follow the winding path to the typical Mexican Yucatan scrub jungle. Don't expect to encounter a lush, thick Amazon-type rain forest. It's not damp enough here, and the Yucatan has no rivers, only underground streams reached by cenotes (wells). Despite the lack of rivers, the Maya built a series of successful city-states with huge buildings prior to the arrival of the Spanish in the 16th century. By that time the Mayan empire was in decline.

The twisting tour has an interesting series of physical exhibits tucked away in the Cozumel jungle--of which there's plenty, because only seven percent of the island is developed. Some five-dozen carefully constructed replicas from the Olmec, Maya, and Toltec eras are displayed in jungle settings. Included are copies of the famous Mayan arch; they never discovered the true arch, instead developing a flat-sided, inverted "V" topped by a flat capping stone.

Walking around a sharp turn in the trail, you encounter a typical Mayan hut with a friendly attendant squatted before an open fire preparing tortillas--your introduction to a modern-day reproduction of a Mayan village, where you can learn about the ancient culture's building and farming practices.

Elsewhere on the tour, a guide demonstrates how to strip fibers from the sisal plant, which in the later years of the 19th century was the basis of a booming Yucatan economy built upon a worldwide demand for sisal ropes. Plantation owners became millionaires (you can see some of the beautiful homes still standing today in Merida, capital of the state of Yucatan). Production of artificial rope reduced the sisal market, but it is still an important crop.

The park offers many marine attractions, such as swimming with dolphins and a sea lion show, neither of which are included in the general admission change ($12; $6 for children aged 3 to 11; tots are free). Dive charges, of course, are also extra (gear, guides, and instruction are available at four shops), but all the rates are reasonable. There are also several shops, snack bars, two restaurants (featuring Mexican food, of course), and a Mayan Museum. The main problem is having enough time to truly sample the complete Chankanaab menu. You'll have to plan carefully!

The park is open every day from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. Conveniently, it has a regular taxi stand where transportation is always available. And as you did on your way out, make sure you have a firm price before hiring a cab ($5 or so, depending upon which pier your ship is using).