If You Only Have A Day In ZIHUATANEJO - Zihuantanejo, Mexico

Cruise Travel, Oct, 2001 by Jim Kerr

Mexican Riviera Port Retains Its Fishing-Village Charm

Exotic and unpronounceable, except with instruction, the name rolls off your tongue with its 11 letters and five syllables--Zihuatanejo. Thirty years ago, however, foreigners had little trouble with it, simply because there weren't any around. It wasn't until the 1970s, when the Mexican government established an adjacent resort with the equally unpronounceable name of Ixtapa, that Zihuatanejo, on Mexico's southwest Pacific coast, became known at all.

Lying about 130 miles north of Acapulco, "Si-wat," as it is now known to Gringos and locals alike, was a sleepy fishing village on a picturesque bay, backed by steep hillsides and lush rain forest. It is said that the Spanish, using this bay as a jumping off point for a trade route to the Orient in the 16th century, spoke disparagingly of the area and its isolation, leaving little behind except some coconuts, which have since germinated into thousands of swaying palms.

Today, Zihuatanejo (pronounced see-whatan-nay-ho for those who wish to practice) somehow manages to retain the bucolic simplicity and friendliness of a small Mexican coastal town, despite the low-key commercialism that has spawned in the shadow of a resort mecca four miles away. Ixtapa, pronounced "Eeks-tah-a," has several large beachfront hotels, two golf courses, a 600-slip marina, and a lengthy stretch of shops, galleries, and restaurants. It's the main destination in these parts for overnight visitors, although Zihuatanejo has two dozen hotels of its own spread out around the bay.

Cruise ships, headed north from Acapulco or south from Puerto Vallarta and Manzanillo on Mexican Riviera cruises, anchor in the protected natural harbor. While not as popular, nor as congested, as Puerto Vallarta 350 miles north, Zihuantanejo has a charm and old Mexico ambiance not felt in Puerto Vallarta since the 1960s, and cruise-ship passengers looking for a breather from bigger ports-of-call might want to spend their short time in and around the town.

Along narrow, red-brick streets, small family-run shops feature lots of crafts made by indigenous people in mountain villages of neighboring states, including lacquered boxes, ceremonial masks, rugs, hammocks, and regionally made ceramics. You can spend a whole afternoon shopping, browsing, and sampling pastries--some of which are baked in the back of El Jumil, a shop run by Senora Natalia Rodriguez Krebs, whose family businesses includes three shops and a pizza parlor. All are located in a building called Casa Marina near the dock, while Galleria Maya, in the center of town, has folk art and leather goods. An open-air craft market with more than 250 stands also lines Calle 5 de Mayo on the west side of town; a colorful, open city market is a few blocks away on the east side.

For sightseeing, start your day right where the ship's tender leaves you off--at the Muelle, or Municipal Dock. A congenial English-speaking caballero will offer a package tour of the area, but you can easily do it on your own in segments if you prefer. If you're in a beach mood, you have several options. Small boats called "pangas" run from the pier to Las Gatas Beach, directly across the bay, until about 5 p.m. It takes about 10 minutes to get there, and you can buy a roundtrip ticket at the pier for around $2.50. The beach is accessible only by boat, and the only commercial activity on the beach is a few seafood stalls.

Otherwise, from the pier turn right on the Paseo del Pescador, a brick sidewalk shaded with trees and lined with shops and seafood restaurants. Musicians and strollers amble by, and the wide Municipal Beach here offers a panoramic view of the bay and any ships anchored offshore. A number of good, inexpensive restaurants are available within a few square blocks for a casual lunch, but if you are in a more extravagant mood, you might want to hold off until you get around to Playa la Madera or Playa la Ropa, two great beaches that are a bit of a hike from downtown Zihuatanejo.

Several hotels line the bluffs above these beaches, with restaurants offering some superb views and good food. One of the best is La Casa Que Canta ("The House That Sings"), situated on a pinnacle that separates the two beaches. The owner collects indigenous art, and the open lobby areas are replete with paintings and hand-carved and -painted furniture. Each guest room is named for a Mexican song, but the song this resort sings for the lunch crowd at the multi-level outdoor restaurant is an awesome aria of panoramic beauty. A swimming pool seems to drop off the edge of the cliff, your ship glimmers in the harbor, and the village of Zihuatanejo sits quietly across the bay.

From here, you can head along the beach in either direction, but Playa la Ropa is the longest and most picturesque, with colorful sunfish sailboats and a mile or more of white sand, fringed by coconut palms. The protected beach is fine for swimming and good for kids. A second luxury resort option for lunch and relaxing is located on this beach at Villa del Sol.