Fred. Olsen's Braemar: an intimate British vessel that offers Americans a fresh approach to cruising - A New Look At

Cruise Travel, Sept-Oct, 2003 by Laurence Miller

In this era of large cruise lines and huge new ships, a small company's acquisition of a third vessel--under 20,000 gross register tons and slightly used--might pass unnoticed. But not among the family of Fred. Olsen past passengers.

That ship, the Braemar, has now been in the fleet for two years, but is still the company's latest cruise liner and remains a hot topic of conversation aboard Olsen vessels. Fred. Olsen Cruise Lines, a family-owned Norwegian company based in England, has established a loyal following in its adopted country. The cruise line's name recognition is, to some extent, based on generations of ocean passenger-ferry services in Northern Europe and the Mediterranean. With passenger shipping now only a small part of Olsen enterprises, the cruise line seems as much a hobby as a business for the Olsens.

The family's current generation takes a hands-on approach to the cruise line beating its name. Decor onboard the fleet is enhanced with Scandinavian art from the owners' collection. The interiors of the Braemar, for instance, reflect the 1993 work of Yran and Storbraaten; the 2001 efforts of McNeece; and notably, the personal tastes of the Olsens.

This probably explains why the interiors of the Braemar and other Olsen vessels offer frequent reminders of the line's seagoing tradition. In the Braemar Room, the ship's main lounge and bar, there is fine model of the 1953 vessel beating the same name as well as wood sculpture from onboard the earlier ship. As one sunbathes around the pool, a glance upward reveals the brass figurehead of a former Olsen ship. And an excellent model of Furness Bermuda Line's Queen of Bermuda is encased opposite the reception desk.

The 19,089-grt/727-passenger Braemar is perhaps better known to Americans as Crown Cruise Line's Crown Dynasty (later Cunard Dynasty). As a new ship, the vessel began sailing from the port of Palm Beach in 1993. The maiden voyage as the Braemar occurred August 11, 2001. Her Olsen fleetmates are the 28,492-grt Black Watch, originally Royal Viking Line's Royal Viking Star, and the 11,209-grt Black Prince, built for the company as a passenger-ferry of the same name in 1966.

While the line has been interested in expanding the number of American passengers onboard, plans to have the Braemar actually call stateside to coincide with a new marketing thrust in North America were placed on hold when the firm was confronted by new American documentation rules following 9/11. Nonetheless, substantial numbers of Americans find their way to the line in Europe, notably for its cruises from Britain to Scandinavia.

The Braemar is based in Barbados during the winter months, and sails to several out-of-the-way islands barred to many larger ships as well as to traditional destinations. Her 18-foot draft and 537-foot length make the vessel ideal for these itineraries. The ship cruises Northern Europe, the Canary Islands, and the Mediterranean the balance of the year.

This cruise experience is quintessentially British. Many cruise connoisseurs welcome the a chance to enjoy a style of cruising that is quite different from what one experiences aboard most North American lines. On a snip of this size and with a middle-class British clientele, people don't hesitate to mix with one another. Indeed, discourse with fellow passengers is a major pastime at cocktail hour, afternoon tea, and the dinner table.

For those who like fixed dining-room seatings and dress codes that make everyone look good, your ship has come in. Passengers on our trip received information on recommended dress for every one of the 14 evenings (four of them formal) of a Canary Islands/Morocco/Spain cruise from Southampton. Dress codes were generally adhered to throughout--no jeans at dinner, and formal attire on formal evenings. Freestyle cruising this is not, but there is an alternative dining option nightly in the Palms Cafe, where one can dine more casually buffet-fashion at any time between 6:30 and 9 p.m. There are open-sitting arrangements in both the main dining room and Palms Cafe at breakfast and lunch.

The cuisine offers the wide variety that caters to British tastes. It is good to excellent, though not upscale or lavish, and offers change of pace from American-based cruise lines. Typical dinner entrees might include Norwegian salmon cutlet, a pasta dish, roast turkey breast, grilled lamb chops, Greek vegetable moussaka, and mozzarella-stuffed rice balls. While there is no low-calorie menu as such, passengers will have no difficulty in dining sensibly. Many passengers responded to a certain amount of portion control by not ordering every course. At breakfast and lunch, most passengers patronized the buffets, while the main Thistle Restaurant offered a complete English breakfast menu served at table, though table-service lunch selections were table d'hote.

In contrast with her fleetmates, the Braemar has the bloodlines of a modern cruise ship. Internally, her public rooms have been given warm, light feel that provides a good setting for the traditional ocean-travel touches previously mentioned. Lounge Deck, the main public-room area, was restructured and opened during a 1991 refit at Blohm Voss shipyard in Hamburg. The Braemar Room, a typical steamship lounge with deep settees and upholstered chairs, has the tartan-patterned carpet found aboard any Fred. Olsen ship. The family has extensive Scottish holdings and likes to celebrate its Scottish ties--down to naming tankers for sections of their Scottish estate. As is true with many European-based cruise ship, lounges are well-patronized with passengers gathering throughout the day and evening to read, socialize, and relax; there is no need to have a special event to draw people.