Cruising the Caribbean … Italian-style: Costa Cruise Lines adds old world elegance to new world voyages on the Costa Mediterranea

Cruise Travel, Sept-Oct, 2004 by Deborah Williams

This season Costa has replaced the call at Progreso with one at Ocho Rios. The most famous attraction here, and one of Jamaica's premier natural wonders, is Dunn's River Falls--600 feet of cold, clear mountain water splashing over a series of stone steps to the warm Caribbean Sea. The most popular way to experience these falls is to don swimming attire and water shoes and climb up the watery steps with the aid of an experienced local guide. Another favorite excursion from Ocho Rios is a trip to Prospect Plantation, offering splendid views of the White River Gorge and jitney tours of the tropical plantation with trees planted by such celebrities as Winston Churchill and Charlie Chaplin.

With Progreso closed, we enjoyed another day at sea, this time with free drinks at mid-day and games, dancing and entertainment by the sheltered pool. Of the three pools onboard, one features a retractable dome, which was much in use during our cool, windy week. The fun-looking Carnivalesque waterslide up on Deck 11 was, unfortunately, open only a few hours during our cruise.

Sailing directly for Cozumel, we arrived Wednesday evening and spent the night and the next day in this popular Mexican island. The pier area is full of shops and restaurants, with bands welcoming cruise visitors with traditional Mexican music. Many passengers took advantage of the unplanned overnight to get in some serious partying. Cozumel has gained a reputation as a party island, and Carlos & Charlies, with its huge tropical drinks, was a hot spot that night.

Cozumel's famed Palancar Reef attracts divers and snorkelers from the world over. Alas, diving and snorkeling trips were canceled because of the ever-present high winds. But the seas were calm in the little lagoon at the Chankanaab Lagoon Park, which has developed into the isle's most popular attraction. There's a little something for everyone: re-created Mayan ruins, a restaurant and bar, tropical gardens, shops, beaches, diving and snorkeling, swimming with dolphins, and one of the only opportunities anywhere to swim with a sea lion.

Our last port, Grand Cayman, is home to Stingray City, one of the most popular Caribbean shore excursions. At mid morning the sun is already high overhead, making it easy to see clearly in the translucent sea. The dozen people standing expectantly in the waist-high water are soon outnumbered by southern stingrays--some with "wing" spans exceeding six feet.

The stingrays seem to know the drill well--swim in quickly as soon as the boat motor stops and be ready to entertain and enchant visitors from afar. The rays welcome pats and caresses on their slippery, soft skin. They soar, they float, they glide, they dive--and they especially favor anyone with a handful of squid. The ray's mouth is on the underside of its body, and the creatures gently gum the food, sucking the squid from fingers with surgical precision.

When Columbus first spotted the Cayman Islands, his son Fernando wrote in his diary that they were "full of tortoise, as was the sea about." The Cayman Turtle Farm, a fun spot to visit, is attempting to restore the world's declining turtle population, having already raised and released several thousand young turtles into the sea. Across the street from the farm is the Cracked Conch Restaurant, a good lunch stop featuring the tasty mollusk as well as other island specialties. For dessert, head next door to the Tortuga Rum Cake Factory--I generous free samples are available.