Antarctica: Norwegian Coastal Voyage heads way down under to do White Continent right

Cruise Travel, Nov-Dec, 2004 by Dave G. Houser

Once the province of only the wealthiest adventurers, Antarctica is becoming accessible to more and more travelers, and nearly all of them make the journey on a passenger vessel, Cruise industry competition is clearly behind the boom that is bringing on line more and larger ships resulting in a doubling of visitors in less than 10 years--while slicing the minimum cost of a voyage to the White Continent nearly in half.

More than 15,000 people joined expedition cruises to Antarctica onboard a record 25 motor vessels and four" largo charter yachts during the austral summer of 2003-2004 Perhaps as many as 5,000 more passed along the fringes of the Antarctic Peninsula onboard larger ships such as Holland America Line's Amsterdam, Princess Cruises" Royal Princess. and even The World of ResidenSea. the privately owned residential cruise liner. Although these were sightseeing-only visits--i e.. no landings--such voyages are likely to inspire some passengers to book more comprehensive expedition voyages in the future.

The Norwegian vessel, Nordnorge, which made her Antarctica debut during the 2002-2003 season, serves as a good example of this larger-vessel/lower-cost trend. One of the more recent (1997-built) of the dozen ice rated vessels of the Norwegian Coastal Voyage fleet, the 11,386-gross-register-ton/404-foot Nordnorge has 464 berths but accepts a maximum of 350 passengers for her 19-day "Antarctica & Chilean Fjords" program with eight departures (Buenos Aires to Santiago and reverse) between mid-November and early February. A ninth sailing has been added for 2004-2005. departing from Buenos Aires on February 23, and visiting the Falkland Islands. South Georgia, and Antarctica.

Carrying a fairly even mix of European and North American passengers, the Nordnorge was booked almost to capacity during her second Antarctic season, which should come as no surprise in view of NCV's extremely attractive per-person fares, ranging for the 2004-2005 season from $4,445 to $7,445, including airfare from New York and pre- and post-cruise hotel stays Rates for the 21-day February 23 voyage that includes the Falklands and South Georgia range from $5,010 to $7,965.

Cruises commencing in Argentina, as mine did, begin with a LANChile flight from New York to Buenos Aires, where guests overnight at the Sheraton with the opportunity to join optional programs including a city tour and a tango show and dinner (highly recommended) at the elegant Esquina Carlos Gardel. Passengers are transferred by charter flights the following morning to Ushuaia, Argentina. where there's an orientation tour of the world's southernmost city and an optional visit to nearby Tierra del Fuego National Park before boarding the Nordnorge.

Next, of course, is the crossing of the notorious Drake Passage--something of an initiation ceremony for all souls bound for Antarctica. Hem where gales and heavy seas are the norm. the size and heft of the Nordnorge is a distinct advantage, providing relative comfort in the roughest of seas, which we thankfully didn't have to endure on this crossing.

There are actually several ships larger than the Nordnorge operating expedition cruises to Antarctica. including the Discovery (ex Island Princess), Saga Rose, and Marco Polo. but the Nordnorge is clearly the best suited for the task among the biggies. Designed for year-round service in Norway's narrow fjords and often-icy polar waters, she features powerful bow and stern thrusters for amazing mobility. Plus there's a cargo deck just above the waterline that adapts nicely for use as a changing area and loading ramp for the ship's fleet of PolarCirkel boats. There's room on this deck as well for protected storage of these inflatable craft, which are similar to Zodiacs.

Interior decor and cabin layout is comparable to most modern mid-range cruise liners, featuring lots of brass, glass, and rich veneers. Lounges, bars, the cafeteria, dining room, and other public spaces are comfortable and spacious, obviously designed to accommodate the large number of day passengers who frequent the Norwegian coastal service. Cabins are a bit snug compared to most newer cruise ships, but generous next to those of the typical expedition vessel. There is a pair of master suites and a dozen junior suites that offer queen-size beds, TVs, and a fridge--not to mention the added space. Breakfast and lunch are served smorgasbord-style from a bountiful buffet while dinner is a sit-down affair with two seatings. Food is tasty and plentiful, although a few passengers complained about the limited choice of entrees (two) at dinner. The wine list is a good one with a number of agreeable selections under $20 a bottle. The cafeteria serves as a round-the-clock source of coffee, tea, and fight snacks.

In keeping with the tradition of expedition cruising, lectures are center-stage in terms of entertainment. In fact, the Nordnorge has no showroom, casino, or swimming pool. There's a no-frills gym and sauna, a small library, and a shop stocked with travel essentials and souvenirs, but that's about it for amenities. The vessel does receive satellite television, both in the suites and at wall-mounted sets in the cafeteria Passengers seemed keen on following world events, though we eventually lost the signal some where about 62 degrees south; but beyond thai point, we were surrounded by icebergs, whales, seals, and penguins, so nobody missed the TV.