Crystal Harmony: a refined liner in perfect tune with her guests and the sea - Crystal Cruises - Crystal Cruises Inc

Cruise Travel, March-April, 2003 by Laurel Doherty, Charles Doherty

They don't make ships like the Crystal Harmony any more--but they should. She beautifully blends the best aspects of traditional liners with the most desirable features of the latest vessels. With only 940 passengers, you get to know your shipmates; but at 49,400 gross register tons, she offers all the onboard options one could desire--sans the gimmicks of the new floating resorts.

Debuting in 1990 as Crystal Cruises' initial ship, the Crystal Harmony showcased many trend-setting elements, such as balconied staterooms and alternative restaurants. And she has continued to trailblaze, being among the first to add a computer center, for example. Just last fall her latest multi-million-dollar refurbishment included the addition of a cigar club and an expansion of the spa/fitness center.

Externally, she remains a definite contemporary classic, from her rakish clipper-style bow to her modified cruiser stern. Her hull is sleek, the super-structure well-proportioned, and the aft decks nicely tiered--nothing boxy about this graceful ocean greyhound. Of course, internally she is graceful as well.

Guests are welcomed in the Crystal Plaza, the main reception lobby. The cozy Crystal Cove piano bar (with its signature clear lucite Crystal Piano) is tucked in portside, while front and center a waterfall cascades down a hand-cut glass sculpture from the upper level of the two-deck atrium. A couple cast in bronze dances in the pool below, a promise of delights to come.

We were escorted to our stateroom, where we received a warm welcome from our room stewardess and her assistant, plus a cabin tour: spacious and restful, with light woodwork, soft pastels, and unobtrusive artwork; bathroom with tub and full amenities, including a scale (shouldn't such; cruel devices be banished to the health club?) TV/VCR; mini bar/fridge; sitting area suitable for dining; comfy bed with duvet and down pillows; private veranda--we could get used to this. Then our luggage arrived, before we even had time to wonder about it.

The Crystal Harmony seems to anticipate your every need, even ones you're unaware of. No ship has ever gotten our particular (peculiar?) coffee/tea morning ritual correct; here our night stewardess aced it the second morning--and every morning thereafter. Does your tux have a pressing need? No problem. A demolished pair of glasses turned over to the concierge is returned the next day as good as new. In no time at all, we'd become a part of the Crystal family. No wonder the line boasts so many repeaters--20 to 80 percent, depending on the itinerary.

We were cruising Alaska, and the Crystal Harmony, a ship as one with the sea yet wide open to her surroundings, was a perfect choice. All but a handful of cabins are outside--most with verandas, the rest with picture-windows. Huge windows also bring the outdoors into nearly every public space. There are outside observation areas fore and/or aft on seven of the eight passenger decks--one of which features a perfect, full-circle teak promenade.

Our first "family" outing found us on the upper, outside observation decks, which were bustling as we approached Hubbard Glacier. The bright, sunny day had the crew abuzz as well, and we were rewarded with spectacular views of the oft fog-shrouded river of ice. Guests passed around binoculars as seals were spotted on icebergs, and waitresses passed out hot chocolate and cider while cameras snapped away. As the ship turned from the pack ice and into the wind, indoors beckoned.

We settled into the spacious, yet intimate, Palm Court, which soon became our favorite spot. A modern take on the ocean liner's winter garden, this bright, airy space, complete with bandstand and dance floor, spans Lido Deck forward. Here plants thrive under four huge skylights and slowly turning ceiling fans, while passengers lounge in the cushioned wicker chairs and love seats, gazing through the floor-to-ceiling windows. Perfect for daytime reading and relaxation, the venue also hosts all manner of activities--dance classes in the morning, afternoon tea, classical concerts, captain's receptions, private parties, and more. Recently refurbished with all new furniture and fabrics, the Palm Court will continue to reign as perhaps the most beautiful room afloat.

Less successful is the adjacent Vista Lounge, a forward observation room with tri-level seating and huge, angled windows spanning 270 degrees. Yet the thick supports between panes, though architecturally interesting (in a whale-bone ribcage kind of way) intrude on the view. But at night, with the astronomical ceiling a'twinkle with constellations, the lounge becomes a romantic hideaway.

Two pools are set amidships on Lido Deck, both well sheltered from the wind. The forward lap pool, open to the sky, is complemented by two whirlpool spas. The aft pool can be covered by a retractable glass dome. In between are the Trident Bar & Grill (burgers, dogs, pizza, and such) and the Ice Cream Bar (complimentary premium scoops and frozen yogurt). All around are ample deck chairs and residential-style patio tables and chairs, in your choice of sun or shade.