Seward: a big-time port with a small-town heart - Port of the Month - cruise travel in Alaska

Cruise Travel, May-June, 2002 by M.T. Schwartzman

William Henry Seward is remembered fondly in Alaska. In 1867, as secretary of state under Andrew Johnson, he spearheaded the purchase of Alaska from Russia for $7.2 million. Today, there are many places that bear his name, such as Fort Seward in Haines and the Seward Peninsula on the Bering Strait. Best known, however, is the town of Seward.

All cruise passengers sailing a Gulf of Alaska itinerary will pass through Seward, either to board their ship for a southbound trip or to debark at the end of a northward journey. Anchorage is the nearest major city, and passengers will begin or end their stay in Alaska at the Anchorage airport.

Some 125 miles south of that airport lies the port city of Seward, on the eastern shore of the Kenai Peninsula, facing the Gulf of Alaska. Seward and Anchorage are linked by the Seward Highway--the only National Scenic Byway in Alaska--and by the Alaska Railroad, which calls the Seward-Anchorage route one of the prettiest stretches of track along its 500-mile system.

Seward is distinct among Alaska's ports-of-call: It hosts thousands of cruise passengers each week, yet has managed to remain a sleepy town. Lately, the people of Seward (population 3,000) have taken to putting murals on their buildings. There's one on the side of the local museum and two more beside one of the girl shops downtown.

Cruise travelers can appreciate Seward in one of two ways. Those heading southbound can explore the town independently before their cruise. Ships depart at night, usually between 8 and 10 p.m., so early birds have time to see the sights. Princess Cruises, which has four ships calling in Seward this season, runs a free shuttle bus between the pier and downtown, about a four-mile loop roundtrip. For passengers traveling with other lines, the Seward Trolley runs daily from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. The route begins at the cruise-ship dock and hits all the major points of interest downtown. An all-day ticket costs $4.

Passengers sailing northbound usually have the additional choice of signing up for a shore excursion. Unlike excursions in Juneau, Ketchikan, and elsewhere, these tours are not bookable in advance. Instead, passengers must sign up at the shore excursion office once aboard their ship. If possible, take one of these short digressions before continuing on to Anchorage.

Seward's abundant wildlife and exceptional surroundings are the focus of most tours. The least expensive choice is a guided visit to the Alaska Sealife Center ($13 to $19). Also affordable are the tours to Exit Glacier ($33) or the wildlife cruise of Resurrection Bay ($69). At the top of the range is the "ultimate" flightseeing and mushing tour ($299 to $350) via helicopter and dog sled.

Too many passengers bypass Seward's colorful downtown, but those who explore its main streets will be rewarded with avant-garde galleries and unique boutiques. A free walking tour brochure, available in any of the participating galleries, highlights nine stops in the compact downtown. Included is the Starbird Studio (221 Fourth Ave.), one of the finest galleries in Alaska. In a corner of the shop is a miniature studio manned by local artists, where visitors can watch as works in progress take shape.

Shops in downtown Seward like to combine souvenir shopping with food service. There's the Alaska Spice Company (211 Fourth Ave.) for fudge and artsy-crafty items. The Ranting Raven (224 Fourth Ave.) offers baked goods and bric-a-brac. Resurrection Art (320 Third Ave.) mixes lattes and lithographs. Even the Seward Drug Company (220 Fourth Ave.), founded in 1919, serves freshly made popcorn and hand-dipped ice-cream cones.

If you happen to be in Seward on the Fourth of July, you're in for a treat. The town goes absolutely nuts for the annual Mount Marathon Race, when participants race up and back down 3,000-foot Mount Marathon, located directly behind town. This event began as a bet in 1909 and has survived ever since. Each year, people come from far and wide to take part, and the town's population swells to 30,000 or more for the day.

Another annual event is the silver salmon derby, when anglers from around the world vie for over $150,000 in prizes. While not quite the huge king salmon found elsewhere on the Kenai Peninsula, the silvers still make for challenging prey. In recent years, the winning fish has tipped the scales at more than 20 pounds. This tournament has been held every August for nearly 50 years.

Seward's colorful history should not be overlooked. It may not be the largest city in Alaska, nor the capital city of Alaska, but Seward nevertheless played a pivotal role in the early 20th century development of Alaska. It was founded in 1903, when the first tracks were laid for what later became the Alaska Railroad. The design for the state flag was first unfurled here in 1927--32 years before statehood. Nearly 90 percent of Seward was destroyed by the Good Friday Earthquake of 1964, the strongest temblor ever recorded in North America. However, many points of historical interest remain.