Rivers of ice: exploring Alaska's most popular glaciers

Cruise Travel, May-June, 2004 by M.T. Schwartzman

It was misting as usual in Juneau, but the drizzle only added to the crisp north-country ambiance. Puffy white clouds crowned the Coast Mountains, still dripping with snow on their higher elevations. As we headed toward Mendenhall Glacier, the fog limited how far we could see. Then as if a curtain had suddenly been lifted--the clouds parted and the massive river of ice revealed itself, like a prehistoric apparition summoned to greet us.

Of all the attractions Alaska offer, glaciers are perhaps the most compelling. After all, Alaska is one of only a few places in the world where you can still find tidewater glaciers--other cruise destinations include Chile and Scandinavia. (In fact, the word "fjord" is Norwegian in origin and applies in any glacially carved inlet flooded by the sea.) Altogether, there are said to be about 100,000 glaciers in Alaska, emanating from ice fields that cover about five percent of the state.

A glacier is formed when snow fails high in the mountains and slowly compacts into ice. As it gets denser and heavier, the ice eventually begins to flow downhill. Some glaciers are advancing and some are receding, depending on whether the snowfall at the source exceeds the rate of melting at the face.

Every cruise of Alaska includes a at least one day of "scenic cruising." which is spent in a park or wilderness area renowned for its glaciated landscape. The most sought-after destination for glacier viewing is the aptly named Glacier Bay National Park, where visitors find 12 tidewater glaciers. Glacier Bay first received national attention when Sierra Club founder John Muir explored the area in 1879. The bay became a designated national monument in 1925, and its status was upgraded to a national park in 1980.

Ships come within a quarter-mile of three glaciers in Glacier Bay--Lamplugh, Margerie, and Grand Pacific--waiting for them to drop giant chunks of ice into the sea. This is called "calving." The ice tears away from the glacier with a thunderous roar, and the impact with the sea shoots water high into the air, creating a swell that ripples through the otherwise calm ocean. Then, the chunk of glacier that created the disturbance disappears below the surface. only to pup back up a few moments later. An iceberg is born.

Many cruise itineraries are designed to provide a maximum amount of glacier viewing. These are usually billed as "Voyage of the Glaciers" or "Glacier Discovery," depending on the cruise line. Almost invariably, these itineraries spend an afternoon in College Fjord, home to 16 glaciers of all different varieties. There are tidewater glaciers, so-called because they flow into the sea. There are valley glaciers, which are like tidewater glaciers but don't quite reach the ocean. There are hanging glaciers, which occur at higher elevations and seem to "hang" on the mountainsides. But you don't need to be a glaciologist to identify which is which--an onboard naturalist will explain the differences.

It's interesting to note how College Fjord got its name. The area was discovered during the Harriman Expedition of 1899, which included John Muir among its members. Funding the explorers were a group of Ivy League and other schools, among them Harvard, Yale, Wellesley, Dartmouth, Radcliffe, and Vassar. As a result, the fjord and many of the glaciers therein are named after these colleges and universities.

Glacier viewing may also take place in Tracy Arm, a long and winding fiord about 50 miles south of Juneau. Upon entering the fjord, your ship snakes between sheer granite cliffs rising thousands of feet high. Cascading waterfalls line the route, and wildlife ranging from harbor seals to mountain goats may be seen basking in the sun or scampering along the crags. In fact, these days of scenic cruising offer some of your best opportunities for exciting and unexpected wildlife sightings. At the end of Tracy Arm lie the twin Sawyer Glaciers. The south glacier is more impressive, and is noted as one of the most active in Southeast Alaska. In fact, spend a little time here and you're almost certain to see it calve--as evidenced by the ever-present ice floes in the water.

Last but certainly not least in the lineup of Alaska's most popular coastal glaciers is the mighty Hubbard five miles wide across its face and 76 miles deep to its source in Canada. Not only is it big, but Hubbard Glacier has also earned a reputation as "the galloping glacier." because it's been known to lurch forward suddenly and unexpectedly--as much as 100 feet in a day--in stark contrast to the slow, almost imperceptible movement of most glaciers.

It's important to note that the size of your ship will determine how you experience Alaska's glaciers. Big ships provide a lofty perch, bringing passengers face-to-face with the glaciers. Those lucky enough to have a private balcony will find it perfect for glacier viewing. Small ships provide a different perspective, lower and closer to the water's surface. Often, small ships carry Zodiacs (inflatable watercraft) or kayaks for close-up encounters with the glacial pack ice.