Corpus Christi

Travel America, July, 2000 by Diane Bair, Pamela Wright

Discover Texas with a Tropical Twist

Blame it on the whoopers. If the whooping cranes hadn't departed the Texas Gulf Coast earlier than expected, we may never have discovered the bountiful pleasures of Corpus Christi.

Like so many others, we were lured to this region of Texas by the birds. Seabirds, shorebirds, songbirds, raptors, marsh waders--they're all Texas tourists, thanks to the geography and climate of South Texas. More than 500 species have been spotted in the area, from as far away as the Arctic (in winter) and Central and South America (in summer). Among the rarer species: the brown pelican and the masked duck. This region is also one of the few in the U.S. where folks can see the endangered whooping crane, a winter visitor. The usual way to see them is via a boat trip out of the Rockport-Port Aransas area, about 30 miles from Corpus Christi, or from a lookout at the Aransas National Wildlife Refuge. We'd brought our spotting scopes, lots of film ...

Our timing was off. We'd missed the whoopers by, oh, three days or so. "But they were wonderful this year," a ranger at the refuge told us. Great. Next time, we'd plan better. For now, why not make the best of it and see what other treasures the area had to offer? For no particular reason, we pointed the car toward Corpus. This proved to be a marvelous idea.

Who knew that this Texas coastal city was the second most popular vacation destination in the state? Not us, but we soon figured out why. Set on the Gulf Coast, about halfway between Houston and the U.S.-Mexico border, Corpus Christi is a big little city on the bay, home to nearly 400,000 people. While this port city has its share of high rises, big banks, and healthcare facilities, one wonders how the employees inside them get any work done. Do they pull the shades down so they won't be distracted by the brilliant blue water and the gorgeous sliver of beach that lies on the other side of the causeway?

Corpus Christi, you see, serves as the gateway to Padre Island National Seashore, with more than 100 miles of beaches. Spring-breakers have discovered the glories of the national seashore's beaches; we didn't run into the college-aged hordes on our trip, but we shared the area with several "winter Texans," who migrate to the mild Texas Gulf Coast from the harsher winter climes of the Midwest. The area shares the same latitude as Tampa, Florida, the tourism folks are quick to point out. It's mighty tempting when one has had enough of snow-shoveling and sniffling. Tourism is the third largest industry here, so they make a serious effort to help visitors unwind and enjoy.

So what if it was winter? The beach beckoned. We put the city to our backs and shimmied over the J.F.K. Causeway to Padre Island. Though breezy and several degrees cooler than Corpus' average temp of 70 or so, the weather was great for beach-walking. Winter is actually a great time for beachcombing, and we scooped up several perfect sand dollars and other treasures. Must be a different scene in late spring and summer, when the beach fills up with bodies, but in late winter, the seashore is wild and untamed, fringed with grassy dunes and teeming estuaries. The only jarring note: the presence of four-wheel-drive Jeeps, bumping along the sand. Some areas of the seashore, such as Big Shell and Little Shell Beach, are only accessible by four-wheel drive. Year-round, surf fisher-folk ply the waters for redfish, speckled sea trout, black drum, and whiting. Bob Hall Pier is open day and night for a small fee; rod and reel rentals and bait are available. (You'll also need a state fishing license with a saltwater stamp. These are available at most Wal-Mart stores and drive-in groceries. For information, call the Texas Parks & Wildlife Department at 800-792-1112.)

Beach camping is always alluring to us, and we'd return to Padre Island in a second to tent-camp at Malaquite Beach Campground, overlooking the Gulf, or even better, one of the primitive sites along Laguna Madre or the Gulf Beach, away from the masses. Another cool thing to do here in summer: look for signs of nesting Kemp's ridley sea turtles, an endangered species. The national seashore is involved in a breed-and-release program, with Mexico, to help save the turtles. (We'd get rid of those cars on the beach if we were in charge!)

Back from the beach, we shook the sand out of our shoes and set off to explore the "city side" of Corpus Christi. Much of the action is centered in the Corpus Christi Beach and waterfront area. Never ones to miss an aquarium, we couldn't resist the Texas State Aquarium, the "official Aquarium" of the Lone Star State, housing more than 250 species of animals and plants native to the Gulf of Mexico. From transparent jellies to toothsome gators, sharks to sea turtles, the aquarium offers plenty to see seven days a week. From the aquarium, it's a quick hop-and-skip to the USS Lexington Museum on the Bay, home of the "Blue Ghost," an actual World War II aircraft carrier. The enemy reported her sunk four times, but the Blue Ghost persevered, haunting the waters of the South Pacific. See other historic airplanes on the flight deck. Re-enactments and multimedia presentations, even flight simulators, make this more than just a pass-through attraction.