Boating on Lake Powell - Arizona, travel highlights - Brief Article - Column

Travel America, July, 2001 by Pat Woods

Day trips spotlight the colorful canyon country of Arizona and Utah

Before moving Arizona, we had savored Maine s craggy coast, Washington, D.C.'s delicate cherry blossoms, and California's giant redwoods. When we wanted the most gorgeous, drop-dead scenery in the continental 48, we headed for Lake Powell near the town of Page, in northern Arizona. We weren't disappointed.

If you think Lake Powell looks fantastic on postcards, it's much better in person. A boat trip is a must.

We opted for the Rainbow Bridge all-day tour. As the boat heads out of Wah-weap Marina into Lake Powell, Captain Dave points out the Navajo Generating Station, plus Gunsight Butte and other rock formations where episodes of the Maverick and Broken Arrow TV shows were filmed. He explains that 95 percent of the lake is in Utah.

It's easy to see why this lake created by Glen Canyon Dam in 1963 is called the "Crown Jewel of the Desert Southwest." Lake Powell's turquoise waters are encompassed by a surrealistic geological landscape of colorful canyons, peaks, and buttes. Vermilion cliffs, along with orange, brown, and gray rock formations accented with green junipers and pines, are capped with azure Arizona skies. Porous sandstone walls absorb the colors created by iron (red), manganese (black), and calcium (white) to create rich patterns called "Navajo tapestry" or "desert varnish."

The lake's 1,960 miles of serpentine shoreline offer countless opportunities to photograph and explore hundreds of intriguing side canyons, inlets, and coves. Anglers are attracted by abundant bass, bluegill, walleye, crappie, and catfish. Cold Colorado River water below the dam provides a perfect trout habitat.

As we cruised, we saw dozens of houseboats with full-size appliances, bathrooms, TV, and stereo systems. Many towed a speedboat or jet ski behind. Rear decks have a slide for easy water entry. Front decks have a gas grill, patio table, and chairs for beach picnics.

As Captain Dave expertly docks the boat, I reload the camera. A short walk on a sturdy steel dock and up a path leads to the Rainbow Bridge National Monument. "Awesome!" everyone exclaims in unison at this massive monument considered sacred by the Navajos. Rising 290 feet above the lake and spanning 275 feet, the sandstone landmark is considered one of the natural wonders of the world.

"I've been here eight times--it touches me spiritually every time. I understand who created it and am inspired by it," says Dale Friedholm, of Brighton, Colorado. "Every time I come to Lake Powell, I bring different people."

While we munched from box lunches on the return trip, our trusty skipper explored some of the 96 side canyons. Everyone rose as he skillfully inched the huge boat through a narrow labyrinth of canyons, some so tight that folks could almost touch the walls.

"You thought that was narrow--you ain't seen nothing yet," the captain quipped as he gently nudged a rock wall. We quietly peered at striated canyon walls rising hundreds of feet on both sides as he turned the boat around in the tight passageway and headed back to Wahweap Marina.

After a dip in Wahweap Lodge's pool, we meet Ken and Barbara Ash of Westport, Connecticut, who rented a powerboat for their Rainbow Bridge excursion. "It's incredible--we have nothing out East that compares with this!" Barbara says.

As we sip margaritas on the lodge's broad flagstone terrace, the Ashes join us to watch the pink-cloud Arizona sunset. Changing light patterns form a kaleidoscope of colors, illuminating the sandstone cliffs with iridescent shades of pink, yellow, and vermilion. Surreal, to be sure.

RELATED ARTICLE: TRIP TIPS FOR PAGE, ARIZONA

Located 271 miles north of Phoenix and 132 miles from Flagstaff on Hwy. 89, Page began as a camp for construction workers building the Glen Canyon Dam. Today a city of 9,750, Page is a thriving center for outfitters and hosts millions of tourists from around the world. You'll find a plethora of accommodations and eateries.

While in Page don't miss these outstanding attractions:

* Antelope Canyon, an intriguing, narrow canyon with constantly changing light patterns and dimensions. The forces of wind and swirling water created the arches and curls of what some call a sandstone cathedral. Located on Navajo land, the canyon can be toured only with a guide. James Plicque of Lake Powell Jeep Tours shared Antelope's fascinating history while he led us through. (520) 645-5501 or www.jeeptour.com.

* Wahweap Marina rents houseboats, powerboats, and personal watercraft. Water lovers can kayak, river float, and waterski. Friends tell us the best way to experience Lake Powell is in a fully-equipped houseboat. They tie up in a secluded cove and use a speedboat to water ski and explore the skinny canyons. Houseboats are a hot item, so reserve early for summer or rent during the value season, late October to May. Reservations (800) 528-6454 or www.visitlakepowell.com.

* Wahweap Lodge. We saw a fascinating array of boat ramp traffic from our balcony overlooking the marina. No matter what season you visit, the glass-walled Driftwood Lounge and fine dining Rainbow Room provide sweeping lake views. A friendly concierge arranged our Antelope Canyon tour. (520) 645-1070 or www.visit lakepowell.com.