Carlsbad's captivating caverns: subterranean splendor—and swarms of bats—enthrall visitors in southeastern New Mexico - Carlsbad Caverns National Park, New Mexioc - Guadalupe Mountains National Pa, Texas

Travel America, July-August, 2003 by Barbara Gibbs Ostmann

Bats might not be high on your list of must-see points of interest. But once you've seen the spectacular bat flight at Carlsbad Caverns National Park in New Mexico, you'll understand why bats can indeed be a major tourist attraction. I first saw the bat flight as a child of about 8 years old, and I've never forgotten it, lo these many years later. More recent viewings have been just as dramatic.

Just before dusk, visitors gather in the outdoor amphitheater near the natural entrance to the cavern, where a park ranger gives a talk about bats. At dusk, the first few bats flutter out of the giant hole in the earth, then suddenly the sky is filled with a whirlwind of hundreds of thousands of bats, swirling counterclockwise into the desert sky.

More than 5,000 bats per minute zoom out of the cave at sunset to feed on flying insects in the night skies of the Chihuahuan Desert. The bats consume some three tons of insects each night. The exact time of the flight depends on the bats, which fly according to their own timetable. The exodus can take anywhere from 20 minutes to 2 1/2 hours.

The pre-dawn return is different than the exit, but just as impressive. Early risers can watch the bats execute incredible dives as they re-enter the caverns. Individual bats coming in from every direction can reach speeds of 25 m.p.h. or more, making a strange buzzing sound as they dive into the cave entrance.

The bat flights occur from mid-May through September or October. The best flights are in August and September, when the baby bats, which were born during the summer, join the flight along with migrating bats heading south from points farther north. The nightly exodus of the bats is what led to the discovery of the cave.

The cavern is home to about one million Mexican free-tail bats during the spring, summer, and early fall. The bats migrate to Mexico in late October or early November. During the day, the bats crowd together on the ceiling of Bat Cave.

If you're in the area in August, stop by for the annual Bat Flight Breakfast on the second Thursday of the month. Attendees at the buffet breakfast are treated to the sounds of thousands of tiny wings snapping shut as the bats reenter the cave to sleep for the day. This is only for early risers--the breakfast begins at 5 a.m.

The bats are obviously just one aspect of Carlsbad Caverns National Park. Carlsbad Caverns is one of the most extensive cave systems in the world. It is also one of the most magnificent. Will Rogers called it the "Grand Canyon with a roof on it."

Both self-guided and ranger-led tours take-visitors through well-lit passageways and rooms adorned with amazing cave formations. Most visitors to Carlsbad Caverns walk some combination of the two self-guided routes and the ranger-led King's Palace tour.

One of the highlights of a cavern visit is the Big Room--the largest single room most people will ever see. The big room is 1,800 feet long and 1,100 feet wide, and could hold 14 football fields.

Inside the cave it's chilly--56 degrees year round--so be sure to wear a jacket. And be prepared: All guided tours include a brief "lights out" experience.

Many visitors don't realize that there are more than 90 known caves within the park's 46,000 acres. One of them, Lechuguilla Cave, rivals Carlsbad Cavern in significance. Since 1984, researchers working in Lechuguilla Cave have charted 100-plus miles of underground passageways. By comparison, Carlsbad Cavern is 30 miles long.

Two backcountry caves, Spider Cave and Slaughter Canyon Cave, are open for special, off-the-beaten-path tours led by park rangers. These wild caving tours range from easy level walking passages to twisting belly crawls.

In recent years, rangers also have been taking small groups on off-trail tours of places in the main cavern that can't be visited by the masses on self-guided tours. These off-trail caving tours require flashlights, extra batteries, a water supply, kneepads, gloves, a sense of adventure, and a certain level of fitness. They are by reservation only; call (800) 967-2283.

Above ground, there are things to see and do, too. The visitor center includes exhibits, a restaurant, gift shop, and pet kennel. The nature trail features plants of the Chihuahuan Desert. Walnut Canyon Desert Drive passes through dramatic mountain scenery. Rattlesnake Springs, a historic oasis, offers excellent bird watching.

The town of Carlsbad, on the Pecos River, is about 20 miles northeast of the national park and bustles with activity.

The League of United Latin American Citizens, the oldest Hispanic organization in the country, sponsors the annual 16th of September Fiesta. The dates this year are September 13-14. Activities include mariachi and Tejano music, ballet folklorico troupes, a parade, crafts, and food booths.

The holiday season in Carlsbad is her-alded by the annual Christmas on the Pecos River Boat Tours, from Thanksgiving to New Year's Eve. The boat tours depart from the Pecos River Village, a turn-of-the-century park, and float past more than 100 private homes that are specially decorated for the season.