Roaming Rhode Island: our smallest state packs a big punch - State Of The Month

Travel America, Sept-Oct, 2002 by Diane Bair, Pamela Wright

Tiny Rhode Island, tucked along the flamboyant New England coast, boasts impressive numbers. America's smallest state measures a mere 37 by 48 square miles, but contains more than 400 miles of coastline, 100 beaches, and 2,300 acres of parks. It's home to six islands and one of the nation's largest concentrations of historical landmarks.

We spent years exploring New England, bypassing Rhode Island for its more prominent neighbors. When we finally slowed down and looked around, we discovered a stunning, diverse land of windswept beaches and lush forests, rich cultural heritage, and vibrant cities. The good news for visitors is that Rhode Island's cozy compactness makes it easy to explore.

Here is our list of 10, not-to-be-missed things to do in the Ocean State:

1) Board the six-passenger, Venetian-style gondola for a paddle along the Woonasqustucket and Providence rivers. You'll skirt leafy landscapes and cobble-stone riverwalks, drifting through a newly revitalized downtown Providence. Back on land, stroll Waterplace Park and lively downtown streets. Browse specialty shops, boutiques, and art galleries framed by flower gardens and flanked by well-preserved historic homes. Worked up an appetite?

Downtown Providence boasts some of New England's best restaurants, from fine dining establishments to casual eateries. If you're craving trattorias and pastas, visit Federal Hill, the city's authentic Italian neighborhood. For classic, no-frills dining, check out Angelo's Civita Farnese, a local favorite, known for its mega-portions and mini-prices.

2) Tour Benefit Street in Providence. Dubbed the "Mile of History," this neighborhood features one of the most extensive collections of original Colonial houses in America. Guided bus and walking tours are conducted by the Providence Preservation Society.

3) Attend WaterFire Providence, an outdoor performance of music and fire. Introduced in 1997, the glittery show sets 60 fires ablaze along the riverfront, choreographed to music. The show, fast-becoming one of Rhode Island's premier attractions, is held alternating Saturday evenings from April through October.

4) Visit the Museum of Art at the Rhode Island School of Design in Providence. Collections include classical art from Greece and Rome, Chinese and Indian works, Egyptian objects, 19th century French art, and masterpieces from the Middle Ages to the present.

5) Follow the New England Trail through South County, home to 19th century seaside resorts and historic villages. Along the way, stop to see America's oldest carousel in Watch Hill, the famous Narragansett Towers, the Gilbert Stuart Birthplace (America's foremost portraitist of George Washington), and Smith's Castle (oldest plantation house in the country.)

Next, don your wide-rimmed hat and flip-flops and head to the beach. From Narragansett Pier to Watch Hill, the southwestern coastline of Rhode Island is nearly one continuous stretch of beautiful white sand. Families like Sand Hill Cove in Narragansett, where the surf is calm and amenities include bathhouses, lifeguards, and snack bars. Charlestown Beach sits at the edge of the Ninigret National Wildlife Refuge. When you want to escape the ocean beach crowd, head to the refuge to walk its peaceful trails. Don't miss a visit to Watch Hill, a quiet Victorian town on the western border of the state. Watch Hill Beach is small and rarely crowded, with changing rooms and a cluster of restaurants and ships nearby. The centerpiece of Watch Hill is the 1867 Flying Horse Carousel, a National Historic Landmark.

6) Take the ferry boat ride to Block Island, located just 10 miles off Rhode Island's southern coast. This island get-away features dunes and sandy beaches, quaint Victorian architecture and rolling, rural pasturelands. Rent a bike in Old Harbor and explore the coastline, inland ponds (there are 200 ponds on Block Island!), and wildlife refuges. Fishing, sailing, picnicking, relaxing, and eating (fresh seafood abounds) are also favorite island pursuits.

Don't miss a visit to Mohegan Bluffs at the southernmost tip of the island, a series of intriguing clay cliffs. Be sure to climb up the short path to the 200-foot elevation for great ocean views. You'll also see Southeast Lighthouse, a beacon to seafarers since 1874. If there's an angler in your group, don't leave the island without joining a deep-sea fishing charter. The surrounding waters of Block Island are home to bluefish, striped bass, and flounder.

7) Explore the picturesque Blackstone Valley. Make your first stop the Visitor Center for an overview of the region and its rich history. Visit the Slater Mill Historic Site, the first factory in America to produce cotton yarn with water-powered machines. The site also includes the Sylvanus Brown House (1758), the Wilkinson Mill (1810), and a reconstructed 16,000-pound water wheel that is still in operation. Also in the area is the Smith-Appleby House (1696) and Daggett House (1685), one of the earliest farmhouses in Rhode Island. Stop by the Brown & Hopkins Country Store, the nation's oldest continuously operated country store, and Diamond Hill Vineyards, located on a 200-year-old estate. Sports fans will want to catch a Pawtucket Red Sox game; the team is the AAA International League affiliate of the Boston Red Sox.