Panhandle pleasures: emerald waters and sugar bowl beaches await sun-seekers in northwest Florida

Travel America, Sept-Oct, 2003 by Angela Wibking

The Florida Panhandle, that narrow strip of the Sunshine State bordered by Alabama, Georgia, and the Gulf of Mexico, boasts some of the most beautiful beaches in the country. The sand here is sugar-white, and the waters shimmer in shades of blue and green, rivaling the Caribbean. The surf is gentle, and there's no abrupt drop-off, so you can wade far out into the warm gulf waters searching for sand dollars. Fragrant pine forests, bays and lakes teeming with fish, and lazy, sand-bottomed rivers fringe the shore.

My husband and I have been exploring the Panhandle for more than 20 years and in every season. As much as we enjoy it in the summer, we love the Panhandle in the fall. As the vacation crowds disappear, room rates drop--yet temperatures stay in the 70s until late November.

One of the most beautiful parts of the Panhandle is an area called the Beaches of South Walton. Located in Walton County, the beaches lie along Scenic 30-A, a two-lane road lined with cottages, locally owned eateries, shops, and art galleries. You won't find a chain motel or fast food restaurant anywhere along the road and no water slides, miniature golf courses, or souvenir emporiums either.

You will find Grayton Beach State Park, a 1,133-acre preserve that includes a mile of beach and parts of Western Lake, one of several coastal dune lakes found only in Walton County and nowhere else in the country. Nestled in the pines and oaks around the lake are 37 campsites equipped with electricity, picnic tables, grills, and water. We've camped here in the summer but in fall prefer the two-bedroom cabins.

We also love staying at Seaside, a little town of cotton candy-colored frame cottages with gingerbread trim and white picket fences. Each narrow brick-paved street leads to the gulf by way of a whimsical beach pavilion, and everything from the post office and gourmet grocery to the restaurants and swimming pools is within walking distance. If the town looks familiar, that's because The Truman Show was filmed entirely on location here. Take a break from the beach and visit Eden State Gardens and Mansion, a historic site just a few miles from Seaside. You can tour the Greek Revival mansion overlooking Choctawhatchee Bay and stroll through the camellia gardens that bloom in February or enjoy the azalea display in March.

The community of WaterColor is Seaside's next-door neighbor. You rent a cottage here or stay, as we did last fall, at the upscale 60-room WaterColor Inn. One of the best things about this community is its proximity to Western Lake. A quiet spin around the lake in a canoe or kayak at dusk is a great way to unwind after a day in the sun. An expanded gourmet continental breakfast is included in the room rate at WaterColor Inn; for dinner, try Fish Out of Water, the inn's gulf-view restaurant with an exhibition kitchen and sushi bar.

When we stay at Rosemary Beach, another little town on 30-A, the architecture reminds us of the French West Indies or New Orleans, but the wide beaches with high dunes covered in wild rosemary and Gulf Coast lupines are pure Panhandle. Amenities here include four pools, tennis courts, and the Butterfly Garden, filled with native plants that attract several species of butterflies. You can dine on bistro cuisine at Sapristi, Mediterranean fare at Meze, and sandwiches and salads at The Summer Kitchen.

Sandestin Golf and Beach Resort, on the western edge of Walton County, is the perfect option for those who enjoy golf and tennis at the beach. Our favorite place to stay here is the Village of Baytowne Wharf, a lively recreation of an old Florida fishing village complete with a marina, shops, and restaurants like Bistro Bijoux and Acme Oyster (an outpost of the famous New Orleans eatery of the same name). Christmas is celebrated in style at Baytowne Wharf, as we discovered last year. An enormous decorated tree illuminated the village, and carolers strolled the streets. Relaxing in the heated pool on a sunny December day, however, was the ultimate holiday treat.

From Sandestin, it's a short drive west to the larger Panhandle towns of Destin/Fort Walton Beach, where you'll find more beautiful beaches, plus lots of family-friendly attractions like the Gulfarium marine park. You'll also find an array of resort hotels, budget motels, rental cottages, great seafood restaurants, and shopping opportunities. Deep-sea fishing for amberjack, tarpon, and blue marlin is a popular pastime, with plenty of charter boats leaving from the Destin harbor.

The westernmost city on the Panhandle is Pensacola. Highlights here include Historic Pensacola Village, a cluster of vintage homes and museums in the oldest part of the city, and the National Museum of Naval Aviation, with more than 150 aircraft and other aviation-related exhibits. Another top attraction is the Blackwater River, a sand-bottomed waterway renowned for its 31-mile canoe trail.

The eastern side of the Panhandle also offers great beaches and unspoiled natural areas, plus the state capital of Tallahassee. This side of the Panhandle is home to Panama City Beach, with its famous 27-mile Miracle Strip of hotels, amusement parks, and eateries overlooking the sparkling white sand beaches. Treat yourself to a stay at the Edgewater Beach Resort, an oasis of gulf-view condos, restaurants, and recreational facilities in the midst of all the action.