All aboard! America's best excursion trains offer stunning scenery on nostalgic rides into yesteryear

Travel America, Sept-Oct, 2003 by Randy Mink

BACK IN THE LATE 1800S AND WELL INTO the 20th century, train whistles echoed across the land, swaying cars clickety-clacked along the tracks and mighty "iron horses" belched billowing puffs of steam that hovered over the countryside. The rail depot was a beehive of activity, and every boy dreamed of becoming a train engineer. Even in this age of airplanes and automobiles, travelers can sample the golden days Of railroading by taking a short excursion on one of America's many tourist trains. Almost every state has at least one. Pulled by old-fashioned steam or early diesel engines, these relics of our past have been lovingly restored by rail buffs and historical groups dedicated to preserving the nation's colorful railroad heritage.

Trips ranging from 45 minutes to all day give passengers a chance to relax and feel the rhythm of the rails as they slip back in time. For older folks, a hankering for the good old days is a chief draw. Adults should not hesitate to bring along the kids and grandkids because most children are fascinated by trains. For everyone, it's a real adventure to pass through unspoiled mountains, forests and farmland, minus traffic and commercial development. Fall foliage season is an especially popular time for these leisurely journeys.

Scenic trains are equipped with vintage coach cars, some authentically appointed with antique furnishings. Your train might have an open-air observation car or a club car that serves snacks. Another treat is having a full-course dinner in the diner. Narration, musical entertainment and costumed folks in period garb might be part of the experience. Many excursions depart from historic rail depots that offer museum exhibits and plenty of souvenirs.

It's hard not to feel happy, carefree and a bit nostalgic whenever you board a train, your magic carpet to good times.

To relive the romance of the mils, choose from choo-choos like the following:

Grand Canyon Railway, Williams, Arizona. Take the train and avoid the traffic congestion at one of America's most popular national parks. On the 2 1/4-hour trip from the 1908 Williams Depot to the canyon's South Rim, strolling musicians and Wild West characters keep passengers entertained as they traverse 65 miles of northern Arizona's pine forests, grassy plains and small canyons. Commonly seen wildlife includes elk, mule deer and pronghorn.

After about 3 1/2 hours at the Grand Canyon, rail riders reboard for the afternoon departure--and should expect bandits (actors, of course) to hold up the train and take hostages. Riders can choose from five classes of service ($58 to $147 roundtrip), and guided Grand Canyon tours may be purchased with rail tickets.

The railway features turn-of-the-century steam engines from Memorial Day through September and 1950s diesel locomotives the rest of the year.

Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, Durango, Colorado. The San Juan Mountains and San Juan National Forest of southwest Colorado provide awesome vistas for passengers traveling the 45-mile stretch between Durango and Silverton. Dating back to 1882, the line was designed to haul gold, silver and other minerals. Guests on the day-long journey have two hours to eat and look around the old mining town of Silverton before heading back to Durango, a colorful place chockful of restaurants, shops and art galleries. Coal-fired steam locomotives from the 1920s stop to replenish their water supply on each leg of the trip.

Georgetown Loop Railroad, Georgetown, Colorado, in this old silver mining town 50 miles west of Denver, hop aboard for the 70-minute journey through the Rocky Mountains or choose a longer trip that includes a mine tour. The hissing steam train crosses the reconstructed Devil's Gate Viaduct, an 1880s engineering feat that towers 95 feet above Clear Creek; the track here crosses over itself, forming a spiral, or "loop." Georgetown abounds with shops and restaurants housed in Victorian buildings.

Napa Valley Wine Train, Napa, California. Gourmet dining is the draw on three-hour champagne brunch, lunch and dinner excursions in California's most famous grape-growing region, The 36-mile trips pass 26 wineries between Napa and St. Helena.

In an area equally renowned for its cuisine, the train's executive chef, Kelly Macdonald, prepares seasonal menus highlighted by the freshest and highest quality ingredients. These "moveable feasts" feature entrees like roasted Angus tenderloin over sauteed oyster mushrooms and poached salmon complemented with chipotle lobster sauce and garnished with caviar. The elegant 1917 Pullman dining car is accented with etched glass, polished brass, fine fabrics and rich mahogany paneling. Hors d'oeuvres are served in the lounge and wine tasting cars, also opulently appointed.

Mid-Continent Railway Museum, North Freedom, Wisconsin. From a restored 1894 Chicago & North Western depot, take a 50-minute, diesel-powered ride through the Baraboo River Valley, past rock formations, open farmland and the ghost town of LaRue, once an iron mining boomtown. This year marks the 100th anniversary of the line's construction to LaRue and 40th anniversary of the museum's location in North Freedom, near the Wisconsin Dells resort area. Special autumn color excursions are set for Oct. 3-5 and 10-12.