Discovering Western Idaho: the words from "America the Beautiful" come alive as you gaze at spacious skies, purple-hued mountains, fast-flowing rivers, and fields of golden grain

Travel America, Sept-Oct, 2004 by Pat Woods

AN AMERICA WEST AIRLINES PILOT WHO frequently flies over western Idaho told me about the state's drop-dead gorgeous scenery. He did not exaggerate.

In lieu of driving husband Bob and I opted for a smooth America West flight from Phoenix to Boise. Arriving on time and relaxed, we deplaned in Boise's spiffy new terminal, which combines urban efficiency with small-form friendliness.

Idaho's capital city of 185,000 is a unique mix of Old West and new technologies. On a city tour, the Tour Train meandered past the rose garden in Julia Davis Park, down tree-shaded streets in Boise's historic district, and through the energetic downtown. Our friendly driver expertly blended fact and folklore as he shared the skinny on Idaho's gold rush and the historic mansions on Warm Springs Avenue, where natural not springs provide heat for 300 homes and state buildings.

Home to numerous corporate headquarters, Boise its ill a green oasis amid 150 types of trees where high desert meets the Rocky Mountains. Four pretty parks known as the Ribbon of Jewels line the river bank. The cool rushing water provides a welcome respite from summer heal. We watched people fish, float tube, and raft the river as others bicycled, walked, or skated along the 25-mile urban riverfront greenbelt. While swimming in the Red Lion Downtown Hotel's outdoor pool at night, we discovered daylight lingers until 10 o'clock summer evenings, extending the hours of outdoor activity.

Across the river Boise State University contributes to the city's enviable performing arts scene. Culture lovers can attend ballet, opera theater, and philharmonic orchestra concerts, plus summer Shakespeare performances. With 12 museums, a zoo, botanical garden, and water park, we found plenty to do.

At the World Center for Birds of Prey, we learned about the biology and ecology of Peregrine falcons and other raptors. Docent Leo Faddis, a retired teacher, used a computer analogy to explain raptors' keen eyesight to a visiting school group. At the Discover Center of Idaho, visitors of all ages touch, explore, and discover by doing.

Boise sports fans call watch three professional teams. Within 90 minutes of downtown, outdoor adventurers can explore rugged mountains, shoot world-class rapids, downhill ski, snowboard, or quietly bird watch at numerous nature preserves. With 3,100 miles of whitewater and pristine alpine lakes, the Gem State attracts anglers who vie for trout, steelhead, salmon, bass, and sturgeon.

We found a bevy of eateries, enjoying an Andalusian eggs breakfast downtown at Goldy's, fine dining at the Cottonwood Grille, and huge portions at Epi's, a friendly, family-owned Basque restaurant. There's more here than meat| and potatoes--the area boasts 12 wineries and vineyards, plus a cheese factory.

Driving north from Boise on the Payette River Scenic Byway (Idaho 55) was a treat for the senses. Leaving urban cares behind, we inhaled the clean piney scent of the mixed conifer forest. The terrain in sparsely populated western Idaho is a colorful tapestry of lush pastures, majestic mountains, verdant forests, churning rivers, and quaint little towns beside sparkling lakes.

As the highway bends and twists along the river, herds of black cattle graze in the meadows. Prairie falcons and other large birds of prey soar over great canyons and scenic byways.

One of Idaho's wildest regions lies along the Oregon border where Hells Canyon, North America's deepest gorge, reaches depths of 7,900 feet. This unspoiled wilderness is accessible only by boat, helicopter, pack animal, or hiking trails. Commercials outfitters in Lewiston, Idaho; Oxbow, Oregon; and Clarkston, Washington, offer Snake River raft and jet boat tours.

During the three-hour ride, our jet boat drivel expertly piloted the 60 pas senger vessel through thrilling whitewater and tranquil stretches of the Snake River. He explained the canyon's geology as we gazed up at soaring 1,000-foot basalt cliffs. On the Idaho side, the boat stopped to view ancient petroglyphs. Whenever someone spotted wildlife, the boat slowed for a closer look at bighorn sheep, deer, and osprey and great blue herons searching for fish.

Traveling north on Highway 95, we passed rafters in the Salmon River and climbed green mountains to an agricultural plateau at 5,000 feet where massive golden grain fields shimmered in the summer sunshine.

Drinking in the fragrance of the lush pine forest that fills northern Idaho, we caught sight of Lake Coeur d'Alene sparkling like a brilliant sapphire set between purple mountains. Long revered for pristine beauty, sandy beaches, and tree-lined shores, Coeur d'Alene became a vacation destination before the turn of the 19th century. Today it thrives as a world-class resort area.

The 18-story Coeur d'Alene Resort stands guard over the lake, whose depths were scoured by cons of glaciers. Live music drifted over the water as we walked along the resort's floating boardwalk. The nearby marina is a Who's Who of luxury cruisers, sailboats, and water ski boats. We caught a ride in a beautiful brass-and-mahogany speedboat that transports duffers to the resort's golf course and its famous 14th-holc floating green.