Cruising America: intimate vessels offer relaxing voyages that showcase historical highlights and scenic splendor - cruising the inland waterways

Travel America, Nov-Dec, 2002 by M.T. Schwartzman

Henry Hudson did it. Lewis and Clark, too. And to this day, there's no better way to discover America than by its inland or coastal waterways.

A cruise of our nation's rivers and lakes has all the ingredients for a great American vacation. There's bucolic scenery, pastoral towns, and local history. More than just sightseeing, though, these heritage cruises incorporate American music, culture, and cuisine into the total travel experience.

Domestic cruises usually take place aboard small ships, which carry significantly fewer people than ocean-going vessels. They vary in style, from historical paddlewheeler to hotel barge and even sleek modern yacht. Prices vary considerably, too. Some lines cost only about $200 a day. At the top of the range, that number can easily double. But as in big-ship cruising, there's usually a small ship to suit every taste and budget.

By its very nature, small-ship cruising is intimate and family-oriented. American Canadian Caribbean Line was founded in 1966 by Captain Luther H. Blount, a Rhode Island shipbuilder who frequently hosted friends on overnight trips during the 1950s. Based on that experience, he established his cruise line for longer and more adventurous trips.

Luther Blount originated many of the hallmarks we find on small ships today. Blount perfected the shallow draft--the vessel's hull extends only six feet below the water--and the bow ramp, which allows passengers to step directly ashore on remote and uninhabited beaches. Thanks to these features, ACCL is able to focus on "localized places" that bigger ships bypass, according to a spokeswoman, with a concentration in the U.S. on New England, the Great Lakes, and the Erie Canal.

Another family-owned, small-ship line is Cruise West, named after the company's founder, Alaska tourism pioneer Chuck West. While its roots are in Alaska, Cruise West has expanded its presence over the years to include the Great Northwest's Columbia and Snake rivers (spring and fall) and California's Napa Valley region (autumn), one of cruising's newest destinations.

Passengers on these wine country cruises learn the art and lore of winemaking from expert masters and are treated to onboard wine-tasting sessions. Itineraries are short--just three or four nights roundtrip from San Francisco, sailing the Napa and Sacramento rivers. A two-night "stopover" package includes hotel accommodations at Fisherman's Wharf or Union Square. While some people come for just the short cruise, others sign aboard as part of a longer stay in the Northern California area, according to the line.

Innovative thinking led to the creation of RiverBarge Excursion Lines, the brainchild of barge expert Eddie Conrad. The atmosphere aboard the R/B River Explorer is decidedly familial. There's no tipping, shore excursions are free, and passengers can even "raid the fridge" for a late-night snack. Meals are served in a casual setting, with no assigned seatings, and the menus feature good old-fashioned cooking.

RiverBarge itineraries, which last four to 10 days, navigate five rivers--the Mississippi, Cumberland, Atchafalaya, Ohio, and Missouri--plus the Texas-Louisiana Gulf Intracoastal Waterway. Itineraries have inviting names like "The Route of Jean Lafitte," "Cajuns and Creoles," "Expanding Frontiers," and "Show Me The Big Muddy." Seasonal departures dubbed "Rare on the River" highlight special themes or events, such as fall foliage, Mardi Gras, Thanksgiving, and the unique tradition of Christmas bonfires that guide the way for Father Christmas. Sailings in 2003 are scheduled from New Orleans, Galveston, Memphis, St. Louis, Nashville, Louisville, Kansas City, and other large fiver cities.

One small-ship line has been around for more than a century. That's Delta Queen Steamboat Company, the oldest U.S.-flag cruise line, which runs three historically styled paddle-wheel cruisers. The company's namesake, the Delta Queen, is a National Historic Landmark. It's also a member of Historic Hotels of America, a program sponsored by the National Trust for Historic Preservation. Two other ships--bigger and more modern--are just as atmospheric and even more opulent.

Steaming along at just eight m.p.h., a cruise with Delta Queen turns back the hands of time with healthy doses of nostalgia and Americana. Theme cruises may celebrate the holidays in Victorian style, relive the battles of the Civil War, or explore the rivers' culinary influences. Special guest entertainers have been known to include Mark Twain.

Similar in style is the American West Steamboat Company, which has made a name for itself with sternwheeler cruises of the Columbia, Willamette, and Snake rivers. The company features nearly year-round cruises of these dramatic and historic waterways, stopping only in January for annual maintenance. Authenticity is the name of the game here, from the genuine paddlewheel that drives the ship to the route the vessel follows, which steamboats have traveled since 1855.

Excursions along the way explore attractions both manmade and natural in three states--Oregon, Washington, and Idaho. Highlights may include a jet-boat ride through Hell's Canyon (the deepest canyon in North America), a tour of the impressive Bonneville Dam, or a firsthand look at the steaming crater of Mt. St. Helens. Altogether, the Queen of the West travels up to 1,000 miles roundtrip from Portland in seven nights.