Jewel of the Missions: San Juan Capistrano offers a glimpse of California history—and the swallows

Travel America, Nov-Dec, 2002 by Alice Ross

More than two centuries have passed since the arrival of the Spanish padres at Mission San Juan Capistrano. The system they established no longer exists, but they left behind a sense of peace where they and the Indians gathered lifetimes ago.

The mission radiates tranquility: Bougainvillea climbs its walls like an elegant crimson cloak. A low wall surrounding the Moorish fountain in the central courtyard invites sitting and gazing upon the lush landscaping. Brick archways march around the inner plaza and alcoves house the bells that once called the community to work or to meals.

One of 21 California missions established by the Franciscans, San Juan Capistrano is known as the "Jewel of the Missions." Located halfway between Los Angeles and San Diego, it was founded in 1776 by Father Junipero Serra, who was to convert the Indians to Christianity and make them citizens of Spain. The padres and few soldiers accompanying them knew not what to expect, but the local natives, called Juanenos by the priests, were friendly and eager to learn new ways. They helped construct the mission complex, which included a school, workshops, living quarters and Capistrano's crowning glory, the Great Stone Church. Taking nine years to build, the church stood until 1812, when destroyed by a massive earthquake. The ruins, softened by time, remain as a faithful reminder of the missions' brief but outstanding chapter in history.

Within the mission stands California's oldest building, the 1778 Serra Chapel, adorned with early paintings, original Indian decorations, and an ancient cherry wood altar from Barcelona, Spain. Tanning vats, tallow ovens, a smelter, the Indians' kitchen, an olive and grain crusher, and workshops remain around the grounds, recalling the miniature city.

One museum room exhibits the sheet music and piano on which Leon Rene in 1939 composed his famous song referring to the annual return of thousands of birds to the mission--"When the Swallows Come Back to Capistrano." They still come--though not in flocks as large as they once did--traveling 7,500 miles every March from their winter home in Goya, Argentina, and build nests in the adobe walls. The birds leave in mid-October. Their remarkable determination parallels that of the mission's early residents, whose flourishing community was destined not to survive.

After Mexico gained her independence from Spain, the government secularized the missions. The padres and most of the Juanenos left, and the mission fell into the hands of corrupt politicians. President Abraham Lincoln later returned it to the Catholic Church, but Capistrano continued its descent into disrepair. Then in 1909, a tubercular young priest, Father John O'Sullivan, came along and decided to make the mission's restoration his remaining life's work. He lived and toiled another 20 years, inspiring those who followed to continue efforts to return the mission to its former glory.

The "Jewel of the Missions" flourishes once again, as a tourist destination. People come to explore the past, enjoy concerts, watch historic re-enactments, celebrate the return of the swallows, or simply absorb the peace and tranquility that dwells in the beautiful setting the padres founded centuries ago.

Contact: Mission San Juan Capistrano, P.O. Box 697, San Juan Capistrano, CA 92693; (949) 234-1300.