Arts Publications

Chicago's magnificent mile: shoppers and sightseers bundle up for winter in the Windy City

Travel America, Nov-Dec, 2004 by Randy Mink

WITH ITS SPLENDID SETTING on the shores of Lake Michigan, Chicago tempts tourists with beaches and boat cruises--at least from Memorial Day to Labor Day. But many hardy travelers relish the thought of the Windy City in winter, a bracing time when they're more likely to get frostbite than a suntan.

When the weather outside is frightful, smart cold-weather warriors spend time browsing and buying in enclosed vertical malls along the 14-block stretch of North Michigan Avenue known as the "Magnificent Mile."

The city's holiday season kicks off Nov. 20 with a Magnificent Mile parade starting Mickey Mouse and other Disney characters. As the procession moves from Oak Street to the Chicago River, Mickey--in his 11th year as master of ceremonies--illuminates the 200 trees with a wave of his wand; the twinkly lights stay lit for four more months.

During the "Chicago Winter Delights" promotion from late November through February, more than 60 downtown hotels offer special rates. Theme weekends highlight the city's cultural life (jazz, opera, dance, museums) with special tours, performances, and discounts.

As part of the mid-winter celebration, lighted sculptures enhance Magnificent Mile sidewalks, and buildings are bathed in vibrant color. In what could be perceived as an act of defiance against Old Man Winter, there's a fireworks display every Saturday evening at the Chicago River.

It's never too cold for a horse carriage ride ($35 a half hour) through the streets off North Michigan--blankets are provided. Carriages depart from the castle-like Water Tower, a symbol of Chicago.

Water Tower Place, across from the limestone landmark, is North Michigan's most famous mall, anchored by Marshall Field's and Lord & Taylor department stores. Bloomingdale's anchors the shops at 900 North Michigan, while Saks Fifth Avenue is the star retailer at Chicago Place. Nordstrom is the main attraction at the Shops at North Bridge, where a whole level is devoted to children's merchandise.

Michigan Avenue also boasts prestige boutiques, from Giorgio Armani to Gucci. The block of Oak Street between Rush Street and North Michigan claims the most exclusive shops, including Prada, Hermes, and Barney's New York. On Michigan Avenue these days you also find familiar chain stores like The Gap, Banana Republic, and Marshall's.

The Mag Mile's hottest new hotel is the Courtyard by Marriott Chicago Downtown/Magnificent Mile (312-573-0800 or 800-321-2211, www.courtyard chicago.com), just steps from all the action. Located at Ontario and St. Clair, a short block from North Michigan, the sleek, Art Deco-inspired hotel is a 24-story tower with long vertical lines and solid concrete sections detailed to resemble limestone. The roof is articulated by decorative aluminum spires, and the base is polished granite with inset aluminum storefronts.

Many of the 306 guest rooms offer views of Michigan Avenue. Amenities include thick, quilted-top mattresses and oversized pillows. The spacious bathrooms sport a residential look with granite vanities and full-length mirrors. The hotel has an indoor swimming pool, fitness center, and Starbucks coffee shop in the lobby.

Adjacent to the lobby is Viand Bar & Kitchen, one of Chicago's most talked-about new restaurants. The contemporary American brasserie provides room service for the Courtyard by Marriott.

Evoking a supper club feeling with an Art Deco-style decor in blacks, reds, and Whites, Viand specializes in "small plates," melding Southern traditions and new culinary trends. Little menu items include Grilled and Chilled Shrimp in a Bourbon cocktail sauce, Kobe Meatloaf with vegetable mash and gravy, and Black & Bleu Beef, a seared Cajun tenderloin.

Mix Chicago vistas with lunch or dinner at the Signature Room, perched on the 95th floor of the 100-story John Hancock Center. On the 94th-floor observatory of the nation's fourth tallest building, brave souls venture out into in the open-air Skywalk to feel the wind and hear the commotion 1,000 feet below.

Contact: Greater North Michigan Avenue Association, (312) 409-5560, www.themagnificentmile.com: and Chicago Office of Tourism, (877) CHICAGO, www.cityofchicago.org/tourism.>