Savannah: southern history unfolds in Georgia's gracious city by the sea - If You Only Have A Day In …

Travel America, Jan-Feb, 2003 by Alice Ross

PERHAPS IT WAS THE MASSIVE oaks draped with Spanish moss, or the gracious wrought-iron-accented buildings, or the cobblestone walkways along the riverfront, but my first and lasting impression of Savannah was a sense of deja vu, like a vague distant memory evoked by some provocative fragrance. Most likely that same heady feeling caused General Sherman to spare the city from a fiery destruction in 1864 and present it instead as a Christmas gift to President Lincoln.

The beautiful Georgia city retains 21 of the original 24 park-like squares laid out in 1733. Around them rise charming old inns, churches, and homes with balconies and sweeping staircases. But before getting too caught up in the wonder of the place, go the Visitors Center for brochures and look around. Located on the site of the 1779 Siege of Savannah, it houses the Savannah History Museum with a diorama of the siege, films, an antique cotton gin (which Eli Whitney invented in Savannah), and a recent addition, the bench made famous by Forrest Gump. You'll also see an 1890s steam locomotive in the building, a former railroad station. A few blocks north of the Visitors Center awaits the Ships of the Sea Maritime Museum, with fascinating models and ships in bottles.

Take a tour by bus, trolley, or horse-drawn carriage for an overview, then go exploring. Be sure to include one of the historic homes, such as the Green-Meldrin House, where Sherman established his headquarters; the beautifully restored home of Girl Scout founder Juliette Gordon Low; and the Owens-Thomas House, with its second-floor drawbridge that spans the stairwell and a balcony from which the people of Savannah were addressed by the Marquis de Lafayette.

Military enthusiasts should head for one of the area's forts. Forts Jackson, McAllister, Screven, and Pulaski offer assorted exhibits, and some have demonstrations. You might spy an occasional alligator in the moat surrounding the brick-and-masonry Fort Pulaski.

Don't miss Riverfront Plaza. Descending the steep, narrow steps and ramps leading to the Savannah River is literally like stepping back in time; the cobblestones were brought in from England as ballast on old sailing ships. Shops, restaurants, and galleries inhabit what once were cotton warehouses that still boast original 18th century timbers. Here you'll find the statue of the Waving Girl, a tribute to Florence Martus, who welcomed with a wave of a kerchief or a lantern every ship entering Savannah for nearly 50 years. If time permits, take a riverboat cruise.

On the topside of the riverfront, the buildings along Factors Walk once housed the cotton factors, or brokers, when Savannah was a leading exporter. World prices were set in its Cotton Exchange, a beautiful example of Romantic Revival architecture. Unique iron walkways connect the buildings to the streets. Top off a tour to the city with a visit to the Pirates House. Now a restaurant, the inn was said to be a meeting place of sailors and pirates.

Even a day in Savannah will not soon be forgotten. The scent of magnolia or a wisp of Spanish moss is likely to evoke its memory time and again.

Contact: Savannah Area Convention and Visitors Bureau, 101 E. Bay St., Savannah, GA 31401; (877) SAVANNAH; www.savannahvisit.com.