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A pilgrimage to Massachusetts: the state that gave us the Kennedys, the Pilgrims, and the Salem Witch Trials abounds with colorful, sometimes quirky, slices of Americana, along with seaside pleasures and pastoral New England countryside - State Of The Month
Travel America, Jan-Feb, 2003 by Diane Bair, Pamela Wright
MASSACHUSETTS DOESN'T look all that imposing on the map; the only thing that distinguishes it from the jumble of smallish New England states is the flexed arm, the cuffed fist portion of it (Cape Cod) jutting into the Atlantic. Maybe it's no accident that this tiny state strikes a defiant pose. Rebellion is no stranger to these shores, as every school child knows. Even now, you can visit Boston's Faneuil Hall, where the colonists gathered to shape the strategies of the Revolution, and Old South Meeting House, where our forefathers, outraged by taxation without representation, dreamed up a plan to dump 342 chests of tea into Boston Harbor. This is the place the "shot heard round the world" was fired, and be assured that time hasn't mellowed the famed feistiness of Massachusetts' citizenry.
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Fast forward to the 1970s, when Massachusetts was the only state in the nation to cast its lot with George McGovern for president, not Richard Nixon. Even now, pundits declare that the Bay State is the only place left in the country where "liberal" isn't a dirty word. Some think there's a bit of intellectual snobbery in the air, perhaps because Boston, New England's largest city, and Cambridge are home to more than 70 colleges and universities, including Harvard University and M.I.T.
But the fact is, Massachusetts is more than Kennedys and college kids. Picturesque seaside towns, rolling countryside fairly bursting with New England charm, and diverse cultural pleasures make this state worth getting to know. The visitor who ventures beyond the city of Boston, wonderful though the capital may be, quickly gets a taste of the contrast and colorful character that make the commonwealth of Massachusetts so intriguing.
Most Massachusetts visits begin in Boston, as well they should. We'd venture to say there's no city in America that more enticingly blends the old (historic landmarks) and new (high-tech high-rises). It's compact, walkable, and offers revered landmarks, such as Paul Revere's House and Old North Church, everywhere you turn. Nearly everybody walks at least a portion of the two-and-a-half-mile Freedom Trail, marked by red lines on the sidewalk.
Whether you choose a guided tour or go it alone, be sure not to miss the famous swan boats on Lagoon Pond at the Public Garden. For just a couple of bucks, a swan boat ride is one of the most precious pleasures of the city.
Once you've taken a tour of the city, you'll want to zero in on attractions that match your interests. Art lovers shouldn't miss the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, on the Fenway, an intriguing collection housed in a Venetian-style palazzo reminiscent of the 15th century. Baseball fans consider a Red Sox game at Fenway Park, one of America's most cherished ballparks, an absolute must. And anyone who considers himself or herself a serious shopper has heard of Filene's Basement. This is the original Filene's, where the annual $200 bridal gown sale causes such a frenzy that it's usually covered by TV news. Fans of the "Broons," Celts, and other Boston teams should put the New England Sports Museum at Fleet Center on their list of must-sees. Then there's the highly-regarded Children's Museum on Museum Wharf, where exhibits offer hands-on excitement. Kennedy buffs, and virtually anyone who remembers Camelot, are drawn to the John F. Kennedy Library and Museum on Columbia Point, filled with memorabilia documenting the life of JFK.
From Boston, visitors looking for a seaside escape have a choice of two Capes, Cape Ann and Cape Cod. The peninsula celebrated in Patti Page's "Old Cape Cod" is the better known vacation mecca, famous for its beaches, seafood shacks, and weathered, gable-roofed cottages. Heading south of Boston from Route 93 to Route 3, there's the obligatory side-trip to Plimoth Plantation--yes, that's the way they spelled it in 1627--and this living history museum vividly recreates life in the Plymouth community. Ask the costumed interpreters about things like cell phones, and true to their roles, they'll give you a "What are you talking about?" look. Plymouth harbor is the site of the Mayflower II, a full-scale reproduction of the Pilgrims' ship, and Plymouth Rock.
Most Massachusetts natives have been coming to Cape Cod for years, and everybody has a beloved place, be it a rustic beach cottage or an historic bed & breakfast inn. You're sure to find an enchanting little slice of the Cape, perhaps along 27,000-acre Cape Cod National Seashore. Rent a bike and take in the vistas along the miles of designated bike and nature trails, where the views include stretches of desert-like sand dunes. Don't miss the local treat, fried clams (juicy bellies intact), available at several eat-in-the-rough joints, including Baxter's Fish & Chips on the harbor in Hyannis, where various Kennedy relatives are sometimes spotted, and seagulls will snatch food from your plate if you aren't paying attention.
At the tip of the Cape is the artist's colony of Provincetown (or P'Town, as it's locally known), a free-spirited community chock-a-block with shops, restaurants, and galleries. Cape Cod is also a popular departure point for ferries to Nantucket and Martha's Vineyard.
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