A pilgrimage to Massachusetts: the state that gave us the Kennedys, the Pilgrims, and the Salem Witch Trials abounds with colorful, sometimes quirky, slices of Americana, along with seaside pleasures and pastoral New England countryside - State Of The Month

MASSACHUSETTS DOESN'T look all that imposing on the map; the only thing that distinguishes it from the jumble of smallish New England states is the flexed arm, the cuffed fist portion of it (Cape Cod) jutting into the Atlantic. Maybe it's no accident that this tiny state strikes a defiant pose. Rebellion is no stranger to these shores, as every school child knows. Even now, you can visit Boston's Faneuil Hall, where the colonists gathered to shape the strategies of the Revolution, and Old South Meeting House, where our forefathers, outraged by taxation without representation, dreamed up a plan to dump 342 chests of tea into Boston Harbor. This is the place the "shot heard round the world" was fired, and be assured that time hasn't mellowed the famed feistiness of Massachusetts' citizenry.

Fast forward to the 1970s, when Massachusetts was the only state in the nation to cast its lot with George McGovern for president, not Richard Nixon. Even now, pundits declare that the Bay State is the only place left in the country where "liberal" isn't a dirty word. Some think there's a bit of intellectual snobbery in the air, perhaps because Boston, New England's largest city, and Cambridge are home to more than 70 colleges and universities, including Harvard University and M.I.T.

But the fact is, Massachusetts is more than Kennedys and college kids. Picturesque seaside towns, rolling countryside fairly bursting with New England charm, and diverse cultural pleasures make this state worth getting to know. The visitor who ventures beyond the city of Boston, wonderful though the capital may be, quickly gets a taste of the contrast and colorful character that make the commonwealth of Massachusetts so intriguing.

Most Massachusetts visits begin in Boston, as well they should. We'd venture to say there's no city in America that more enticingly blends the old (historic landmarks) and new (high-tech high-rises). It's compact, walkable, and offers revered landmarks, such as Paul Revere's House and Old North Church, everywhere you turn. Nearly everybody walks at least a portion of the two-and-a-half-mile Freedom Trail, marked by red lines on the sidewalk.

Whether you choose a guided tour or go it alone, be sure not to miss the famous swan boats on Lagoon Pond at the Public Garden. For just a couple of bucks, a swan boat ride is one of the most precious pleasures of the city.

Once you've taken a tour of the city, you'll want to zero in on attractions that match your interests. Art lovers shouldn't miss the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, on the Fenway, an intriguing collection housed in a Venetian-style palazzo reminiscent of the 15th century. Baseball fans consider a Red Sox game at Fenway Park, one of America's most cherished ballparks, an absolute must. And anyone who considers himself or herself a serious shopper has heard of Filene's Basement. This is the original Filene's, where the annual $200 bridal gown sale causes such a frenzy that it's usually covered by TV news. Fans of the "Broons," Celts, and other Boston teams should put the New England Sports Museum at Fleet Center on their list of must-sees. Then there's the highly-regarded Children's Museum on Museum Wharf, where exhibits offer hands-on excitement. Kennedy buffs, and virtually anyone who remembers Camelot, are drawn to the John F. Kennedy Library and Museum on Columbia Point, filled with memorabilia documenting the life of JFK.

From Boston, visitors looking for a seaside escape have a choice of two Capes, Cape Ann and Cape Cod. The peninsula celebrated in Patti Page's "Old Cape Cod" is the better known vacation mecca, famous for its beaches, seafood shacks, and weathered, gable-roofed cottages. Heading south of Boston from Route 93 to Route 3, there's the obligatory side-trip to Plimoth Plantation--yes, that's the way they spelled it in 1627--and this living history museum vividly recreates life in the Plymouth community. Ask the costumed interpreters about things like cell phones, and true to their roles, they'll give you a "What are you talking about?" look. Plymouth harbor is the site of the Mayflower II, a full-scale reproduction of the Pilgrims' ship, and Plymouth Rock.

Most Massachusetts natives have been coming to Cape Cod for years, and everybody has a beloved place, be it a rustic beach cottage or an historic bed & breakfast inn. You're sure to find an enchanting little slice of the Cape, perhaps along 27,000-acre Cape Cod National Seashore. Rent a bike and take in the vistas along the miles of designated bike and nature trails, where the views include stretches of desert-like sand dunes. Don't miss the local treat, fried clams (juicy bellies intact), available at several eat-in-the-rough joints, including Baxter's Fish & Chips on the harbor in Hyannis, where various Kennedy relatives are sometimes spotted, and seagulls will snatch food from your plate if you aren't paying attention.

At the tip of the Cape is the artist's colony of Provincetown (or P'Town, as it's locally known), a free-spirited community chock-a-block with shops, restaurants, and galleries. Cape Cod is also a popular departure point for ferries to Nantucket and Martha's Vineyard.

If you headed north instead of south from Boston, you made an equally inspired choice. The 30-mile rocky coastline north of the city is dotted with inviting seaports and fishing villages. Heading up along coastal Route 1-A, about 20 miles from Boston, is postcard-pretty Marblehead, a popular sailing center. Most day-trippers find their way to one of the waterfront restaurants in Old Town, a prime spot to watch the action. Fort Sewall, on Front Street, is another good place to hang out and enjoy the salt air.

The neighboring town is Salem--yes, that Salem. Far from shying away from its gory past, this city makes much of it, with attractions like the Salem Witch Museum and the Witch Dungeon Museum featuring re-enactments of witch trials. A wax museum and pirate museum are part of the line-up in this tourist-friendly city.

Heading farther north, connecting with Route 127, you'll reach Cape Ann. Bring some walking shoes. These towns, including Gloucester and Rockport, are delightfully walkable. It's practically the law to have one's picture taken with the famous Fisherman Statue on Stacey Boulevard in Gloucester. Also look for the new, and poignant, Fisherman's Wives Statue, dedicated to those who have lost loved ones at sea. Follow Route 127 to East Gloucester's Rocky Neck, the oldest working art colony in the country. Downtown, you're sure to see signs for whale watch excursions, and this is an experience not to be missed if you've never been up close and personal with a giant cetacean. In neighboring Rockport, visitors poke around the tiny shops and galleries, and walk out to Motif #1, a fisherman's shack that will look familiar--it's one of the most-captured (on canvas and by camera) images in the country.

For most people, their northshore jaunt ends there. Too bad. If you connect with Route 133 and go just a tad farther north, then follow Route 1-A to Argilla Road, you'll end up on one of New England's most glorious beaches, Crane Beach. Sugar-white sands and graceful dunes make this a wonderful place to get sand in your shoes. Stop at Russell's Orchards for a homemade cider donut and a cup of cider, then proceed north about 12 miles to Newburyport, just shy of the New Hampshire border. You could travel the planet and not find a more handsomely restored seaport town, with wonderful one-of-a-kind shops, not a Gap in the bunch.

Our whirlwind tour of the Bay State continues westward, whether you're coming from the north or south, to the unheralded center of the state. Worcester is the home of one of New England's most unusual museums, Higgins Armory, housing a large collection of medieval and Renaissance armor in a Gothic castle setting.

Southwest of Worcester is Old Sturbridge Village, in Sturbridge, a living history museum where an 1830s New England rural settlement comes to life. Heading west on Route 90, you'll bypass several small towns, approaching the region known as the Pioneer Valley. The Connecticut River slices through the countryside here, where the largest city is Springfield, home of the Naismith Memorial Basketball Hall of Fame.

From this point, you've traveled about two-thirds of the way across the state, so you might as well continue on to the Berkshire Hills, a paradise for leaf-peepers in fall, a mecca for culture-vultures in summer. The line-up includes Jacob's Pillow Dance Festival in Becket and the Tanglewood Music Festival, summer home of the Boston Symphony Orchestra, in Lenox. A picnic and concert on the lawn of the Tanglewood estate is one of Massachusetts' most perfect pleasures.

Time to head back to Boston? Well ... maybe. Although you've covered a lot of territory, and Boston is less than 100 miles away, you might want to call it a day, just for the excuse to splurge and spend the night at the historic Deerfield Inn. The next day, you could check out funky, artsy Northampton, home of Smith College; the dinosaur footprints at Nash Dinosaur Land; Volleyball Hall of Fame in Holyoke; and Belchertown, just to say you've been there.

All this, and you didn't even make it to Lexington and Concord (they'll be there next trip) or to the Lizzie Borden Bed & Breakfast inn in Fall River--or perhaps you'd rather pass on that one!

Contact: Massachusetts Office of Travel and Tourism, (800) 447-MASS; www.massvacation.com.

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